Month: February 2024

Sacred Threads: the Spiritual and Artistic Essence of Islamic Talismanic Shirts

Emna Esseghir

An Islamic ottoman talismanic shirt

(Source : https://www.orientalartauctions.com/object/artisla47916-an-islamic-ottoman-talismanic-shirt)

Imagine holding a garment crafted with painstaking care, where each stitch tells a story of centuries-old tradition and every pattern whispers ancient wisdom. Each  talismanic shirt, adorned with symbols shrouded in mystery, acts as a tangible bridge between the earthly and celestial realms.

In the Islamic tradition, known for its emphasis on clarity and rationality, the talismanic shirt presents a  contradiction – its intricate design captivates with an irresistible allure, yet it challenges the foundational principles of faith that prioritize logical inquiry and unwavering devotion. Within the intricate tapestry of this garment lies a narrative as timeless as humanity itself, a story of yearning and aspiration. It echoes our deep-seated desire for protection and our longing to connect with the unseen forces shaping our existence. This shirt embodies the eternal dance between tradition and modernity, belief and skepticism, urging us to ponder the delicate interplay of faith and reason.

Thus, the talismanic shirt transcends mere fabric, becoming a symbol of our eternal quest for meaning and connection. It serves as a tangible reminder of our innate curiosity about life’s mysteries, inviting us to delve into the depths of our spiritual consciousness. In its presence, we’re encouraged to contemplate the profound complexities of faith and spirituality, embracing the beauty found in the enigmatic unknown.

Why do humans need “protection” ?

The use of talismans is not exclusive to Islam but finds resonance across various religious and spiritual traditions, including Hinduism, Buddhism, and others. In Hinduism, for example, amulets and talismans are known as “yantras” or “lockets”, and are believed to possess divine powers that provide protection, blessings and spiritual guidance. Similarly, in Buddhism, practitioners often carry amulets known as “thokcha” or “phurba,” which are believed to offer protection against negative energies and obstacles on the spiritual path. These talismans often feature sacred symbols, mantras or images of deities, serving as reminders of spiritual principles and aiding in meditation and devotion.

Across various cultures and religious traditions, the use of talismans reflects a universal human desire for protection, guidance, and connection with the divine. Whether in the form of taweez, yantras, or amulets, these symbols serve as tangible expressions of faith and devotion, offering comfort and reassurance to believers in times of need. Moreover, the cultural and traditional significance of talismans transcends religious boundaries, with individuals from diverse backgrounds embracing these symbols as expressions of their cultural heritage and identity.

Psychologically, the act of wearing or possessing talismans can provide a sense of empowerment and agency, allowing individuals to feel more confident and secure in their daily lives. Additionally, the rituals associated with obtaining and wearing talismans can foster a sense of connection with one’s spiritual beliefs and community, promoting a deeper sense of belonging and purpose.

The appeal of talismans extends beyond religious affiliations, encompassing a wide range of cultural, spiritual and psychological needs. As symbols of faith, protection and tradition, talismans continue to play a significant role in the lives of believers worldwide; offering a source of comfort, strength and inspiration across diverse religious and cultural landscapes.

What is a talismanic shirt ?

An Islamic ottoman talismanic shirt

(Source : https://www.orientalartauctions.com/object/artisla47916-an-islamic-ottoman-talismanic-shirt)

A talismanic shirt stands as a unique fusion of garment and spiritual artifact, embodying mystical and protective properties woven into its very fabric. These shirts, found across diverse cultural and religious contexts, serve as tangible manifestations of spiritual beliefs and practices, offering wearers a tangible connection to the divine and a sense of comfort and protection in their daily lives. In Islamic culture, talismanic shirts, known as “jama’ah al-tawiz,” are meticulously crafted with symbols, inscriptions, and sacred verses from the Quran, believed to bestow blessings and safeguard the wearer from harm. 

Each shirt is a testament to the unique traditions and beliefs of its creators, with intricate designs and symbols reflecting the spiritual heritage of the community. From intricate patterns to specific inscriptions, talismanic shirts serve as more than just clothing; they are conduits for spiritual connection and sources of solace and protection in a complex and ever-changing world.

Image on the left: detail of a 15th-century Sultanate Quran, with the same motif (circled in yellow) resembling the word ‘Allah’ written in Arabic that is also present on the borders of the talismanic shirt. India, 15th century, © Khalili collection | Image on the right: detail of the talismanic shirt, India, 15th–16th century. Museum no T.59-1935 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Magic Shirt in Quran 

There is a story about Surah Yusuf Ayat 93 (12:93 Quran): “Go with this my shirt, and cast it over the face of my father: he will come to see (clearly). Then come ye (here) to me together with all your family.”

Here is the story of the shirt of Joseph (Yusuf), which he sent to Jacob (Yacoob) from paradise; and the secret behind Jacob regaining his sight from that hour. 

The essence of the story mentioned is that when Nimrod (Namrood) threw Abraham (Ibrahim) into the fire naked, The Angel Gabriel descended to him with a shirt and a breath from paradise. He clothed him with the shirt and seated him on the breath, and the shirt remained with Abraham until he clothed Isaac, and Isaac clothed Jacob. 

So Jacob took it and placed it in an iron or silver casket and hung it around Joseph’s neck when he feared for him from the evil eye.

The Angel Gabriel instructed Joseph to send it to Jacob so that his sight would be restored by the fragrance of paradise; for the fragrance of paradise will heal the sick and bring relief to those who are afflicted. 

Muhammad Al-Tahir bin Ashur

(Source: Wikipedia)

The scholar Muhammad Al-Tahir bin Ashur commented on this narration in his exegesis, “Al-Tahrir wa al-Tanwir,” : It is said that the shirt was the shirt of Abraham, although the shirt of Joseph was brought by his brothers to their father when they came, with false blood on it. It seems that sending his shirt was a sign of the truthfulness of his brothers in what they conveyed to their father about the news of Joseph and his safety… As for Jacob regaining his sight through the shirt, it was a grace from Allah. 

The spiritual and artistic sides of Islamic talismanic shirt 

Example #1:

Talismanic Shirt 15th–early 16th century

(Source : https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/453498)

This talismanic shirt is decorated with painted squares, medallions, and lappet-shaped sections. Its surface features intricate designs encompassing most probably the entire Quran inscribed within. Surrounding these areas are the ninety-nine names of God, written in gold against an orange background. On the reverse side, a central panel bears a proclamation in gold script declaring, “God is the Merciful, the Compassionate”

Example #2

An Islamic ottoman talismanic shirt

(Source : https://www.orientalartauctions.com/object/artisla47916-an-islamic-ottoman-talismanic-shirt)

This shirt is decorated with intricate writing in Naskh script, in lots of bright colors and designs like cypress trees. The writings are from the Quran, prayers to God, and other sacred texts. They come in different sizes and shapes, sometimes mirrored or on different backgrounds in colors like black, red, green, and gold. On the back, there are more writings about Allah and parts of the Quran, surrounded by fancy designs like gilt lotus flowers and leaves, making the shirt look both fancy and spiritual.

Example #3:

An ottoman talismanic shirt, 18th century

(Source : https://www.orientalartauctions.com/object/art3002406-an-ottoman-talismanic-shirt-18th-century)

A striking shirt embellished with a rich tapestry of text, woven in Naskh, Thuluth and Kufic scripts, and adorned in an array of vibrant hues. It also has a myriad of panels, circular motifs, and intricate cypress tree designs, all meticulously arranged across the fabric. The inscriptions, drawn from the Quran, feature invocations, divine attributes, prayers, and the names of Allah, alongside verses rendered in a captivating blend of sizes, shapes, and colors. There are striking patterns and mirrored forms set against a backdrop of black, red, blue, and gold. The back of the garment features a captivating display of Allah’s names, Quranic verses and talismanic numbers, encircled by opulent gilt lotus blossoms, flowers, and foliage, completing a masterpiece of artistry and spirituality

Example #4

Talismanic shirt – Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
Source: [https://islamicart.museumwnf.org/database_item.php?id=object;isl;tr;mus01;18;en&cp]

The front of the shirt has a round collar and is open down to the level of the abdomen. The entire surface of the shirt is decorated with Quranic verses, prayers, magic formulas and numerological charms. The back part of the shirt features a design of naturalistic flowers decorated in coloured pigments. 

The inscriptions on talismanic shirts consist mostly of chapters and verses of the Quran. In addition to these, the names and epithets of God (the Asma al-Husna), the names of various prophets and the four major angels, the seal of the Prophet Muhammad and poems praising him. Occasionally written on the shirt is the hilya (Description of the Prophet), and the names of Fatima, her sons Hasan and Husayn, the first four caliphs, as well as the signs of the zodiac.

These are few examples of Islamic talismanic shirts; you can see two models exhibited in the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia.

Talismanic shirt from the Islamic Art Museum

credit : Emna Esseghir

In conclusion, the Islamic talismanic shirt represents more than just a piece of clothing; it is a profound symbol of spiritual belief and protection, deeply ingrained in Islamic culture. Adorned with intricate inscriptions, sacred verses, and symbols, these shirts serve as tangible manifestations of faith;  offering wearers a sense of connection to the divine and a source of comfort and protection in their daily lives. Across diverse cultural and religious landscapes, talismanic shirts stand as testaments to the enduring power of belief and tradition, bridging the gap between the material and the spiritual realms. Through their intricate designs and spiritual significance, these shirts continue to captivate and inspire, reminding us of the profound depths of spirituality and the human quest for meaning and connection.

References

https://www.orientalartauctions.com/object/art3002406-an-ottoman-talismanic-shirt-18th-century

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/453498

https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/fabric-of-india/guest-post-a-warriors-magic-shirt

https://ajammc.com/2021/04/30/premodern-ppe-talismanic-shirts/

https://islamicart.museumwnf.org/database_item.php?id=object;isl;tr;mus01;18;en&cp]

Guest Post: A Warrior’s Magic Shirt
The Arts of Protection and Healing in Islam: Talismanic Shirts as Premodern “PPE”

Highlights of the Manila Galleon: From Asia to the Americas Exhibition 

By Karen Loh

Model of a Manila galleon sitting proud at the ACM, constructed by master ship modeller Máximo Agudo Mangas, and historical researchers Iván Valdez-Bubnov, Jorge Loyzaga 

During our MV Training Programme, we learn about the Treaty of Tordesillas of 1494 when an imaginary demarcation line was drawn 370 leagues to the west of Cape Verde islands, from pole to pole, dividing the world between Portugal and Spain to explore new lands outside Europe. In this treaty, it was agreed that the Portuguese would sail east while the Spanish sail west. While we are familiar with what happened to Melaka when the Portuguese arrived after sailing south of the West African coast, around the Cape of Good Hope and then India, we do not know as much on how the Spanish fared. Well, maybe except for Ferdinand Magellan, who had a personal servant (/slave) and interpreter called Enrique of Melaka, or Henry the Black, believed to be the first person to actually circumnavigate the world.

Sailing west, Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese who changed allegiance and worked for Spain under King Charles, arrived at the islands later known as the Philippines (named after King Phillip II) in 1521. Magellan had sailed south of the Americas and made a courageous voyage across the Pacific Ocean. Meanwhile, in the same year, the Spanish conquered the Aztecs and captured their city of Tenochtitlan, capital of the Mexica. 

The Spanish soon found their way overland to the port of Acapulco located on the west coast, but it would take another 44 years before the Manila galleon Transpacific trade began. 

The Spanish could not find a favourable route back to Acapulco. For example, while it generally took around 40 days from Acapulco to Manila, the return journey took around 6 months, if the ships survived the rough and turbulent Pacific Ocean. It would take many failed Spanish expeditions before they found a route with agreeable winds to take them home. From 1565 -1815, a period of  250 years saw thriving trade between these two ports, carried on Manila galleons. The galleons only made one return journey per year and were funded by the Spanish royal treasury. 

In 1571, Miguel López de Legazpi conquered Manila for Spain. Manila became  Spain’s only link to Asia since the other route through the Indian Ocean was controlled by the Portuguese and later the Dutch and the British. It was an important link for several reasons. Not only were the Spanish able to purchase much sought-after commodities from China, Japan, Southeast Asia and India to import to Mexico, the Americas and Spain, but the galleons also brought silver, gold, and new types of food (especially chocolate) to Asia. Furthermore, they had a spiritual mission: to spread the Christian faith, carrying priests onboard these galleons. 

This special exhibition entitled: Manila Galleon, from Asia to the Americas at the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore focuses on the trading network of goods and commodities. Through its 130 exhibits collected from the 16th-20th centuries, the exhibition features the trading network not only of goods like porcelain, silk, textile, tea, spices, silver, and other commodities, it also tells the story of the people and the exchange of their technologies and cultures. What was most interesting for me were the food and animals from the Americas. Did you know that maize (corn), chilli, papaya, pineapple, peanuts, cassava (tapioca), tomato, sweet potato, avocado, turkey, and chocolate made from the cacao bean were brought from the Americas?

This Tree of Life has photos of people of African, Chinese, Filipino, Mexican, and Spanish descent, most of them mestizos, which means people of mixed heritage besides cutouts of food and luxury items carried on the Manila galleons

Mancerina. A Mancerina is a cupholder attached to a large saucer, used to serve hot chocolate. The saucer makes the hot chocolate easier to hold avoiding burnt fingers, serves to catch any hot chocolate which may spill over and also to hold pastries! Mancerinas come in many designs and can be made in porcelain, silver, brass etc. This mancerina with crab legs is one of my favourite designs

John the Evangelist, Mexico 17th century. I found this exhibit very interesting as it is made out of feathers! Painted paper or gild is sometimes added to add brilliance. Take a closer look. Can you see the gold halo?

A silver bird ornament with silver picks and a Spanish dollar. As China demanded to be paid in silver, and Spain had access to it through its conquest of the Americas, which produced this white metal, huge amounts of silver came on the Manila galleons. It was the first global currency! The Spanish dollar, also known as ‘pieces of eight’ because it was worth eight reals, was also minted in silver  

Life-sized portrait of Hasekura Tsunenaga c1616. Hasekura Tsunenaga (1571-1622) was a samurai who was sent to Rome by the feudal lord of Sendai. He met with Pope Paul V in 1615. This portrait was painted to commemorate the event. Look at the fine details of Hasekura’s outfit, the ship representing his voyage and angels above the ship representing his faith

Afidah and I, taken at the Manila Galleon Exhibition

The Manila Galleon Exhibition at the ACM is on until 17 March 2024. Do PM me if you have any questions.

References:

  • Oon, Clement (Exhibition curator) (2023). Manila Galleon: From Asia to the Americas. Oxford Graphic Printers