My Path as a Volunteer Guide at the National Museum

By Emna ESSEGHIR

As I gazed at the group photograph of the museum volunteers captured at our year-end “MV Party”, all I saw were radiant smiles, spontaneous reactions, and newfound friendships. This was an opportunity for us all to give thanks and reconnect. Batch 40 MVs were especially jubilant as the party was also their graduation ceremony. As for the rest who attended, we were not short of being excited and spirited. I can most definitely attest this to be true for Batch 38, my batch!

How did this incredible journey unfold? Let me weave the tale of my enchanting odyssey towards becoming a volunteer guide at the National Museum. I’ll illustrate just how exhilarating my journey was. Who knows? This might just kindle the same spark within you to do the same.

It all started in May 2022, upon the recommendation of two esteemed French-speaking guides. Stepping into the presentation room during an information morning session, I was met with a sea of eager faces, a diverse mosaic of different age groups and backgrounds, converging in pursuit of something magical. Throughout the session, I found myself to be further inspired to guide visitors through the museum’s treasures. The presence of existing experienced MVs added a sense of wisdom, while the discourse brimmed with motivation and passion. In that moment, a fervent thought surfaced, “I must be a part of this!”

I soon enrolled, and the thrill of being officially accepted was like a surge of electricity, igniting my excitement for the training which commenced in September 2022. Embracing the same anticipation, I felt as though I was a child eagerly awaiting to return school after a long summer vacation. I was bubbling with enthusiasm.

Before the training kicked off, I made a trip to the bookstore to get some stationery – notebooks, paper, and some colourful pens, like a burst of colours which aptly represented my readiness to dive headfirst into this adventure!

At last, the day of my first class arrived. The not-so-spacious MV Room was already buzzing with attendees. I quietly settled into a seat at the back of the room, observing the unfamiliar faces around me. Apart from a fellow French individual, I was a stranger among strangers, but hey, it was just the first day! 

As the roll call commenced, prompting us to sign next to our names, it felt like we were at school again. We were strongly encouraged not to miss any sessions unless absolutely necessary, with a cautionary note that repeated absence might hinder our progress. 

That was not an issue for me as Tuesday classes were a perfect fit for me. The training team’s introduction was warm and approachable. I have a tendency to infuse my initial impressions with positivity. Striving to be an attentive learner, I absorbed each detail like a sponge. 

It was revealed to us that the diverse topics crucial to Malaysia’s history will form the content of our training. Each of us will be put to the test by undergoing oral assessments of varying durations – 3, 7, and 15 minutes – fun I’d say! Notably, the assessment demanded a supporting written essay with a pre-determined format, character count, and referencing, not unlike an academic research paper!

We had our photographs for our future MV tags, this felt like an initial stride towards a promising journey. Our group was subsequently divided, each subgroup was entrusted to an experienced guide. I found myself under the guidance of Mr. Jega, who exuded an air of wisdom and commanded respect effortlessly. He seemed to possess an encyclopedic knowledge of the museum, almost as if he had been a part of its history from the very start. The setting up of a WhatsApp group with him was aimed at streamlining communication, and each student was tasked with randomly selecting their first three-minute topic. Mine turned out to be ‘tulang mawas.’ A quick dive into Google helped unravel the mystery behind this intriguing phrase! Well, it seemed like diving into reading and research was the name of the game! 

The early sessions posed a challenge, especially for a foreigner like me struggling with a new geography. Feeling lost was a familiar sentiment until a presentation on the ‘Bujang Valley’ prompted a strategic shift. 

I began prepping before class, diving into research to grasp, follow, and engage with the material. Waking up early had long become a routine, a habit cultivated since childhood. Progress was swift, and as the training advanced, I found myself increasingly enjoy reading and researching. Mr. Jega with his insistence for factualness, attention to detail, and kindness, helped polished my knowledge. Thankfully, my presentations sailed through on the first attempt. Our mentors – Jega, Rama, Debbie, Sibilla, and Anna – were stellar trainers. In the classroom, we were all learners, irrespective of our levels. The space fostered camaraderie, gradually breaking down barriers among us. I cherished the conversations I had with my two Korean friends seated in front, even before learning their names. Engaging with my friend Rueben, sometimes relying on his translation for English or Malay words, added to the friendliness. 

Mutual support bound us together. The visible disappointment in someone’s eyes when they had to retake a test was met with a reassuring word. As our journey progressed, the ties within our Batch 38 family strengthened, evolving into something truly priceless.

The passing weeks were a whirlwind, and our volunteer librarians, Jean and Lai Meng, were the pillars of unwavering support, guiding us on how to select suitable books as reference.

Each of us was tasked with experiencing at least three guided tours to absorb, contrast narrative styles, and explore various approaches. Personally, I dove headfirst into more than 10 tours, uncovering hidden gems with each visit. 

As we approached the program’s conclusion, the pivotal moment arrived when we needed to select a mentor for an extensive museum tour. I approached my guide, Mr. Jega, requesting to continue under his wing, and to my delight, he graciously accepted. 

The pride I felt was immeasurable—I aspired to navigate the entire museum in English, a language not native to me, but a challenge I welcomed with open arms! My decision led me through the four galleries, and oh, the tales I have from that journey! 

In our compact team, led by Mr. Jega, each member possessed a distinct style. I surmise this diversity was a common thread among other groups. Yet, amid this diversity, one remarkable and undeniable thread prevailed: the unprecedented unity among us! 

We freely exchanged resources and ideas, fostering an environment devoid of rivalry. We collectively believed in the power of shared knowledge, understanding that its distribution only magnifies its impact. Our mutual support was palpable, a cascade of motivation and encouragement. The elation I experienced witnessing my peers conquer galleries was akin to my own triumphs. Perhaps it’s ingrained in our culture or fostered by our group dynamic. Following Fuad in Malay or someone else in Chinese? Absolutely no issue there! Language barriers crumbled in the face of friendship. Being there, shoulder-to-shoulder with friends, providing unwavering support in times of struggle, is the very essence of our shared experience. In our realm, friendship speaks a universal language, unifying us beyond any linguistic boundaries.

I made it a point to be there for my buddies as they were there for me. That mutual support meant the world, there was no awkwardness among us. My first big win? Jega’s ‘good’ on my report on 26/01/2023. That maiden tour felt like an epic saga! They said it took two hours, but trust me, it felt more like a marathon – easily four hours. We stopped at every single artefact, diving deep into their stories. Mr. Jega wanted to make sure I knew the museum inside out. Round two, a few days later, 03/02/2023, and guess what? Nailed it! I was the first to wrap up, and my mentor’s comment – “completed successfully” – felt like a display of fireworks within me! But wait, it wasn’t a wrap yet, my gang hadn’t finished, and my buddies in other groups were still getting assessed, so I stayed on standby to lend a hand. 

Hey! I’m not some prodigy – everyone was worked hard, and it was beyond amazing! Every day, one of our mentors would blast out a success story on our WhatsApp group. The vibes were all about cheers and high-fives! And voilà! We aced our tasks, every single one of us. Personally, after acing it in English, I aced my French tour, guided by the fabulous Marie Andrée, our experienced French-speaking guide. What a ride!

Then came my very first official tour, and guess who was in my group? A VIP – a distinguished professor, a big shot in the tin world. Was I nervous? Not really nervous, but this thought kept popping up: ‘What if I blank out? What if I can’t find the right info?’ But then I told myself, ‘Come on, Emna! You’ve put in the work for this moment – you’ve got this!’ I had eight visitors in total, and you know what? I completely forgot it was my first tour. It felt like second nature, like I’d been doing this my whole life. Sharing my knowledge was an absolute blast! And you know what topped it off? The feedback was all thumbs up, which gave me a huge sense of peace.

That day, entering Gallery C, I ran into my mentor, Mr Jega. His smile and words of encouragement felt like a beacon of honour, affirming my efforts. The tours kept rolling – English, French, and most recently, Arabic. 

Peering out my window every day, I see the National Museum, a place that now feels like a second home, draped in its traditional Malay style. Memories rush in – cultural escapades, eye-opening visits, mind-boggling conferences, city jaunts, and delightful lunches. 

We’ve woven a tapestry of experiences, deeper than the mere tours. Opting for this program stands tall as one of my most pivotal choices since landing in Malaysia. 

Uncovering the layers of history in this remarkable land has been a rewarding quest. Yet, the real gem lies in the friendships, the extended family I’ve discovered along this path. This expedition continues, and I hope that our friendships endure, transcending the museum’s walls. 

A resounding thanks to everyone, near and far, whose contributions supported our journey. Your encouragement has been our fuel, and we’re driven not to disappoint.

Thank you! 

Focus Talk 18 November 2023: WAYANG KULIT

Speaker : Dato’ Kapten Professor Emeritus Dr Hashim Bin Yaacob

Write-up by Shirley Abdullah

In Malaysia and the Malay-speaking parts of Southern Thailand, Wayang Kulit may be classified into four categories;-

Wayang Kulit Siam (Wayang Kulit Kelantan)

Wayang Kulit Jawa (Wayang Kulit Melayu)

Wayang Gedek (Nang Talung)

Wayang Kulit Jawa (Wayang Purwa)

Prof Dr Hashim focused his talk on his personal experience as a practitioner of Wayang Kulit Siam . He also performed selections from  repertoires written by himself, with the assistance of his colleague, Che Su.  MV Anne was also roped in to perform as one of the characters and mustered a convincing turn as the evil protagonist  ! We could see that the performance involves a great deal of arduous effort and the tok dalang has to be highly skilled in order to accomplish a seamless performance.

Commenting on the evolution of various forms of wayang kulit  in Kelantan, he said that in the 1920’s, puppeteers from Kelantan were sent by the royal court to Java to learn the Javanese form of shadow play, primarily for performances within the confines of the royal households. However the stiff, archaic, classical styles generated little enthusiasm among viewers. “There was little movement, they kept repeating the same themes in the storylines, it was boring, thus it died a natural death, “ he said.

Wayang Kulit Siam is still performed in Kelantan, Terengganu, Kedah, Perak and Patani.  In the past, it was much cherished as a source of entertainment by village folks.. Often the performance is completed in a single night but Prof Dr Hashim recalls occasions, usually connected with wedding celebrations when the performances were extended over seven nights, and generated considerable excitement among enthralled rural audiences. 

The wayang kulit performances  take place on an open-air theatre (panggung) elevated about one metre above the ground.  Spectators will be seated in front on the grass or on benches .

The panggung represents the universe. The screen at the front of the stage , on which shadows of the puppets are projected, represents the world with images of people passing through.  The dalang gives life to the puppets by switching the lamp (symbolizing the sun) , on and off

The tree of life ( Pohon Beringin ) represents the elements  ( water, earth, air, fire.)

The Tok Dalang ( dalang ) narrates the story and mimics the voices of the various characters. To do this, he has to sing as well as modulate his voice for dozens of parts The puppets have a sharp split-bamboo point  on their base which is  stuck onto  a banana stem. This enables the dalang  to deftly switch puppets for different characters. 

Apart from being skilled in puppet manipulation, the dalang coordinates his performance with the orchestra who receive cues from him.

The orchestra comprises of  between seven to ten musicians, who play a double-reed oboe ( serunai ), gongs ( tetawak, canang), hand cymbals ( kesi ), and various drums ( gendang, gedumbak, gedung ).

The principal Wayang Kulit Siam storyline is based on Hikayat Maharaja Wana, a Malay version of the Ramayana. The original trunk story ( cerita pokok ) focuses on the rivalry between Rama and Ravana for Siti Devi’s hand. 

Branch stories (cerita ranting) were spin – offs invented by dalangs who used characters from the Ramayana but developed new story lines. This afforded them the opportunity to also highlight contemporary issues, and provide social commentary. Entertainment for the masses remained  the main focus  so performances were heavily laced with humour  and rousing music .

According to Prof Dr.Hashim, he is concerned that Wayang Kulit in its current state as an art form is fast approaching the point of extinction.

He is aware that not many people are interested in viewing wayang kulit performances, not to mention actively promoting it. This is also because not many are able to understand the language used during the performances. This is predominantly the Kelantanese dialect of the Malay language, which is challenging for even native Malay speakers from out of state. 

He also felt that wayang kulit performances failed to attract a younger audience because they did not incorporate contemporary elements.  Neither the traditional storylines nor the music had evolved or adapted  to satisfy the appetites of the younger generation. 

The banning of wayang kulit performances by the state government of Kelantan in 1998 had also dealt a serious blow to the art form. The negative perception created by the labeling of wayang kulit performance as haram and going against the teachings of Islam had a considerable impact especially in deterring the older generation from patronizing the art form. The ban has since been lifted in 2019.

Prof Dr. Hashim explained the reason for the initial ban on Wayang Kulit Siam performances.

 Wayang kulit is performed by a master puppeteer known as “Tok Dalang”. The tok dalangs were also  bomohs who served the local communities as Malay shamans and traditional medicine practitioners. They were steeped in traditions and rituals in which they claimed to act as intermediaries for spirits. 

The Tok Dalangs  performed rituals in conjunction with Wayang Kulit performances such as “Kenduri” (feast), “Buka Panggung” (rites to commence the theatre ) and “Berjamu” (ritual performance). These rituals involved the recital of invocations for appeasement of the spirits which constitutes “syirik” (associating others with God). During the performances, the dalang could also go into a trance. Ascribing power to anything other than the one God violates Islamic belief (monotheism). 

While Prof Dr. Hashim  was a dentistry professor at Universiti Malaya, he was already heavily involved in the Malay poetry scene. He ventured into performing poetry recitals in public in an attempt to curb a nervous condition when he first became a young lecturer. He strongly advocates public performance to anyone who wants to conquer stage fright ! Since then he flourished as a prolific poet with five anthologies of poetry publications and the prestigious Anugerah Sastera Perdana ( National Literary Award )  under his belt. 

His close friendship with the then Vice-Chancellor of Universiti Malaya Royal Professor Dr. Ungku  Abdul Aziz Ungku Abdul Hamid also influenced  his interest in culture and arts, as both shared a mutual interest in fostering  and promoting local art forms.

The Kelantan state government ban on wayang kulit in 1999 aroused his concern for  the future of the art form. Prof Dr. Hashim  draws from a family lineage of wayang kulit dalangs; his grandfather Jusoh was a revered dalang.

After being schooled for 7 years by renowned  Kelantanese dalang, Dollah Baju Merah and his pupil Ariffin Che Mat, he ventured into live performances as a dalang  in rural Kelantan. Instead of the traditional incantations to the spirits which accompanied traditional performances, he recites Islamic prayers during the opening and closing of the show. His intention is not to transform wayang kulit into Islamic wayang kulit but to make it compatible with government rulings as well as to popularize it and enable the art form to thrive. 

Prof Dr.Hashim made efforts to remove elements which are in conflict with Islamic teachings from the performance scripts. He has invested considerable time and effort to propagate a better understanding and appreciation of Wayang Kulit by writing books which provide translations of the language used in the performances and explanations of the story lines. To make wayang kulit more accessible to the man on the street, he uses standard Malay during his performances. He has also performed Wayang Kulit as a puppeteer not only in Malaysia but also in Singapore, Egypt, Indonesia ,India, Japan, and Korea He has also delivered his performances in various languages such as in Mandarin, English and Arabic.

While purists lament the decline of the art form in its original state, Prof Dr.Hashim stresses that adhering to the traditional style will only result in declining  audience numbers. He feels that wayang kulit plots should go beyond the traditional plots from the Ramayana. He has written scripts with unorthodox themes and many of them are humorous skits. When he was Vice-Chancellor of Universiti  Malaya in 2003, he taught wayang kulit as a 28- hour elective.for undergraduate students.

How did the practitioners of Wayang Kulit Siam and their audience, who were mainly Muslims, receive Hindu influenced storylines?

In his book, Prof Hashim explained that according to Dollah Baju Merah, the renowned master puppeteer , the Universe is divided into four habitats with their own inhabitants. 

Refer to the chart below :

CHART : THE UNIVERSE AND ITS FOUR HABITATS 

OF WAYANG KULIT SIAM ( WAYANG KULIT KELANTAN )

# Reference: Sejarah Dan Pengalaman Gaya Bahasa Wayang Kulit; Author : Hashim Bin Yaacob  Publisher: Pekan Ilmu Publications Sdn Bhd

The chief of the universe resides in the uppermost kayangan and he is known as Dewa Sang Yang Tunggal.  The term “Tunggal” means “one” which denotes the oneness of the Dewa, creator of the universe of the wayang kulit, who has great power over all things.

The ocean in Wayang Kulit Siam is ruled by a dragon – king called Sepit Bentala Maha Gangga, the underworld by a genie (Jin) called Jin Doho Balai Seribu  and the land by a mortal , Sri Rama.

“Sri Rama, the hero prince of Wayang Kulit Siam epitomizes the perfect man, at the very least in the physical form. What then are some of his attributes to warrant the privilege ? Whatever they are, they must be conjured up according to the taste of the day among the Wayang Kulit Siam supporters”, said Prof Dr.Hashim.

We are told that out of boredom and loneliness in the Uppermost Kayangan , Dewa Sang Yang Tunggal decided  to descend to earth to see the affairs of the world, disguised as a commoner. 

His willingness to suffer humility and become the servant of Maharaja Wana is viewed as a positive trait. The practice in humility  (  rendah diri ) and modesty is a distinctive feature of the social conduct in Malay society which persists until today.

Clear messages can be drawn from the varied dramatic repertoires, which may influence the general audience in leading their lives, in their code of conduct and in their perception of the world. Negative traits among humans such as ungratefulness, pride, greed, telling lies, slandering a person, ridiculing a person are also emphasized as undesirable traits.

The importance of forging  close ties among family members is also expounded. Sri Rama could always count on the help of his younger brother, Raja Muda Laksamana, and his son, Hanuman Kera Putih..

Prof Hashim feels that one of the most important messages is the respect accorded to learned individuals ( orang yang berilmu )  and the process of acquisition of knowledge  ( ilmu ) itself.  Wayang Kulit Islam  also emphasizes relationships between men and women through marriages. In its repertoires, we are constantly reminded of the love Sri Rama had for his wife, Siti Dewi  . Sri Rama had to face all odds and obstacles including fights against the demon king, Maharaja Wana,  in order to win back his wife after she was abducted.

Prof. Dr.Hashim feels that the positive messages in Wayang Kulit Siam are a reflection of the teachings in Islam and are imparted by dalangs through the heroes and villains of the various repertoires. He remains positive about the future of this treasured art form . He emphasizes that even though  it is necessary for the art form to evolve to ensure its survival, whatever efforts taken must ensure that the local identity of the people of the land should not be lost.

The Beauty and Legacy of Arabic Calligraphy: An Artistic Odyssey

By Emna Esseghir

Leaf from the Blue Quran of Tunisia showing Sura 30: 28–32, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Human is Social by Nature

Ibn Khaldun, the distinguished Tunisian historian and scholar, expounded in his seminal work, the “Muqaddimah,” the profound idea that humans innately gravitate towards forming social groups, tribes, and communities. He persuasively argued that these intrinsic social bonds not only define our human nature but also serve as the bedrock for the development and sustainability of entire civilizations. This notion of social cohesion finds resonance in our broader human proclivity for connectivity, which echoes resoundingly throughout history.

The fascinating evolution of human communication further underscores our fundamental need to express and safeguard knowledge. This captivating journey commenced with rudimentary visual storytelling through cave paintings and progressively evolved into more structured forms of writing, including early pictograms and ideograms etched in cuneiform and hieroglyphics. As human societies advanced, the emergence of abstract scripts, epitomized by the Phoenician alphabet, substantially enhanced the efficacy of communication. The pinnacle of this progress was reached through the artistry of calligraphy, where skilled artisans elevated writing into a form of visual expression. Through the medium of calligraphy, they crafted exquisite manuscripts, sacred texts, and official documents, eloquently illustrating our unwavering commitment to conveying ideas, sharing wisdom, and etching an enduring legacy on the tapestry of human history.

To explore the captivating world of Arabic calligraphy, which serves as a testament to the beauty of written expression, In this article, I will explore the history and evolution of Arabic calligraphy. Additionally, I will elucidate various aspects of Arabic calligraphy exhibited within the Muzium Negara.

What’s Arabic Calligraphy?

Based on the definition given by the Unesco, Arabic calligraphy is the artful practice of elegantly writing Arabic script, aiming to convey a sense of harmony, grace, and beauty. This tradition, passed down through both formal and informal educational channels, involves the skillful arrangement of the twenty-eight letters of the Arabic alphabet in a flowing, cursive style, typically from right to left. Initially designed to enhance the legibility of written text, it gradually evolved into a revered form of Islamic Arab art, applicable to both traditional and contemporary works. The flowing nature of Arabic script offers endless creative possibilities, allowing letters to be elongated and transformed in various ways to create diverse visual patterns.

Text from a 14th century Quran written in the Rayhani script
(Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Traditional techniques employ natural materials like reeds and bamboo stems as writing tools, while ink is meticulously crafted from a mixture of honey, black soot, and saffron. The paper used is handmade and treated with starch, egg white, and alum. In contrast, modern calligraphy frequently employs markers and synthetic paints, and spray paint becomes the medium of choice for calligraffiti, which adorns walls, signs, and buildings. Artisans and designers utilize Arabic calligraphy to enhance various art forms, including marble and wood carving, embroidery, and metal etching.

Origins of Arabic Calligraphy

The pre-Islamic period in the history of Arabic calligraphy was characterized by a relatively rudimentary form of the Arabic script. During this time, the Arabian Peninsula was home to various tribal communities, and the Arabic script, which had evolved from the Nabatean script, was used primarily for practical purposes such as inscriptions and basic record-keeping.

Map of the Roman empire under Hadrian (ruled CE 117–138), showing the location of the Arabes Nabataei in the desert regions around the Roman province of Arabia Petraea

This script had a limited number of characters and was written from right to left. Over time, as the Arabian Peninsula became more interconnected through trade and cultural exchange, the script began to evolve to accommodate the Arabic language.

In pre-Islamic Arabia, the primary means of communication and cultural preservation was through oral tradition. Poems and stories were passed down orally from one generation to the next. Writing was less developed, and the use of the Arabic script was limited mainly to practical purposes such as inscribing names, tribal markings, and important declarations on stones and other surfaces.

Examples of Nabataean inscriptions from Petra (Source: https://www.swissinfo.ch/spa/multimedia/tras-las-huellas-de-scheich-ibrahim_petra–esplendor-del-desierto/34695166)

The early Arabic script bore the influence of neighboring scripts like Aramaic and Syriac, evident in some of the shapes and characters present in early Arabic inscriptions.

These initial instances of Arabic script dating from that era are observable in inscriptions on pre-Islamic artifacts, including tombstones, coins, and the foundations of structures. These inscriptions tended to be straightforward and pragmatic, serving functional purposes rather than showcasing the artistic finesse associated with calligraphy.

It’s worth highlighting that the development of Arabic calligraphy as a refined and artistic tradition occurred later, coinciding with the rise of Islam. The Quran, revealed to the Prophet Muhammad, played a pivotal role in elevating the Arabic script to a higher status. This transformation ultimately gave rise to the diverse calligraphic styles and forms that we now associate with Arabic calligraphy.

Arabic Calligraphy’s Zenith

The early development of Arabic calligraphy represents a captivating narrative of artistic evolution that defies linear progression. Across geographically dispersed regions like Damascus, Baghdad, Morocco, and Spain, a rich tapestry of scripts flourished and waned in popularity. Among these, Kufic, originating from the city of Kufah in Iraq, emerged as the initial universal script, holding sway over Arabic calligraphy from the 7th to the 11th century. However, during this early period, Kufic retained a certain ruggedness and lacked the systematic refinement that would characterize its later incarnations during the “Golden Age” of calligraphy.

The turning point in the journey of Arabic calligraphy arrived in 762 when the Abbasid Caliph Mansur embarked on a grand endeavor—the construction of Baghdad, a meticulously planned city positioned strategically along the banks of the Tigris River. Baghdad swiftly ascended to the status of the cultural nucleus of the Middle East, attracting scholars, artists, and intellectuals from far and wide. It was in this vibrant and intellectually charged atmosphere that Arabic calligraphy reached its zenith of development.

This illustrious “Golden Age” of Arabic calligraphy is often epitomized by the contributions of three iconic calligraphers:

1- Ibn Muqla (886–940) introduced groundbreaking principles of proportion and aesthetics to the art, elevating it beyond mere utility.

2- Ibn al-Bawwab (believed to have lived from 961–1022) pushed the boundaries of script and composition, further enhancing the art’s visual appeal and complexity.

Two folios of the Quran, written by Ibn al-Bawwab in 1001 CE. The original copy is preserved in Chester Beatty Library, Dublin (Credit: Chester Beatty Library, Dublin)

A folio from the Quran written by Ibn al-Bawwab (Chapter 971 Al-Qadr and Chapter 98: Al-Bayyinah) (Credit: Chester Beatty Library, Dublin)

3- Yakut al-Musta’simi of Amasya (d. 1298) left an indelible mark with his intricate and ornate calligraphic works, exemplifying the pinnacle of the craft.

A folio of the Quran, written by Yaqut al-Mustasimi, preserved in Topkapi Saray Library, Istanbul

Two folios from the Quran, written by Yaqut al-Mustasimi in 1269 CE, are preserved in Khuda Bakhsh Library, Patna, India

In this era, Arabic calligraphy transcended mere writing; it became an art form that harmoniously blended form, function, and artistic expression. It was not merely a conduit for conveying words but a source of visual beauty and cultural significance.

The “Golden Age” of Arabic calligraphy refined the art to such an extent that it continues to inspire admiration and scholarly inquiry, standing as a testament to the enduring marriage of creativity and tradition. This legacy endures in the intricate and elegant calligraphic works that grace Islamic architecture, manuscripts, and various forms of artistic expression today.

4- Arabic Calligraphy different style

Arabic calligraphy encompasses an array of script styles characterized by cursive forms, vertical extensions, and intricate geometric designs. Some scripts adopt more pronounced curves and intricate linkages between letters. Each style of Arabic calligraphy serves a distinct purpose, tailored to the specific intentions of the calligrapher.

Same sentence written in 12 different styles
(Source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/321514860892971724/)

5- Examples of fusion with the Arabic Calligraphy:

Here are photos of several buildings, ceramics, weapons, and artefacts adorned with Arabic calligraphy. They come in various forms and styles, usually designed to convey moral messages through Quranic verses.

Facade of Mohamad Ben Khairoun El Maarefi’s Masjed in Kairouan – Tunisia With Kufi Script (Photo: Issam Barhoumi)

Calligraphic mosaic, Iran
(Source : https://www.sciencephoto.com/media/83654/view/calligraphic-mosaic-iran)

Ottoman Sword By Ahmad Al Khurasani with Arabic calligraphy, exhibited at IAMM (Photo: Emna Esseghir)

Aceh plate with Arabic calligraphy exhibited at Islamic Arts Museum, Malaysia
(Photo: Emna Esseghir)

Tiles with Quran verses exhibited at Bardo Musuem Tunisia
(Photo: Mohamed Yazid Ben Abdessalem)

The Kaaba’s gold laced cover
(Photo: Sami Mansour)

The calligraphic inscription between the zigzag designs and medallion reads: Blessings to Allah and praise be to Him, Blessed be Allah the Great, Oh, Lord who give us riches, There is no God but Allah and Prophet Muhammad is the Messenger, Surah al-Baqarah (2:144), and Oh, Sultan.

Red vest with verses displayed in Gallery B, Muzium Negara
(Photo: Emna Esseghir)

*woodcarving is influenced by the moral ethical values with Quranic verses:

Wood carved plates, Gallery B Muzium Negara
(Photo: Emna Esseghir)

Persian or Iranian Brass Islamic Magic Bowl, Gallery B, Muzium Negara
(Photo: Emna Esseghir)

References

  1. Blue Quran: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blue_Quran
  2. THE MUQADDIMAH by Abd Ar Rahman bin Muhammed ibn Khaldun: https://delong.typepad.com/files/muquaddimah.pdf
  3. Arabic calligraphy: knowledge, skills and practices: https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/arabic-calligraphy-knowledge-skills-and-practices-01718#:~:text=Arabic%20calligraphy%20is%20the%20artistic,cursive%2C%20from%20right%20to%20left
  4. A Brief History of Arabic Calligraphy: https://www.skillshare.com/en/blog/a-brief-history-of-arabic-calligraphy/
    https://www.metmuseum.org/learn/educators/curriculum-resources/art-of-the-islamic-world/unit-two/origins-and-characteristics-of-the-arabic-alphabet
  5. Ibn Muqla: https://artcalligraphy.net/en/ibn-muqla/
  6. Ibn Muqla: The prophet of Arabic Calligraphy by Md. Monirul Islam: https://ocd.lcwu.edu.pk/cfiles/Arabic/Min/FA-101/IbneMakla.pdf
  7. Hasan Celebi, Turkey’s Master Calligrapher by Professor A. R. MOMIN: https://www.iosminaret.org/vol-8/issue21/Hasan_Celebi.php
  8. Arabic Calligraphy Styles: https://www.arabic-calligraphy.com/arabic-calligraphy-styles/
  9. Some Islamic Artefacts at Muzium Negara: https://museumvolunteersjmm.com/2020/04/01/some-islamic-artefacts-at-muzium-negara/

Unlocking the Eight-Pointed Star’s Mystery

By Emna Esseghir

An eight-pointed star-shaped tile.
Image source: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/444459

Introduction

Stars have perpetually held a captivating allure for humanity, drawing us into realms of scientific fascination, artistic ingenuity, and profound spiritual significance. These celestial entities have not merely fueled our scientific explorations, revealing their diverse classifications and intricate life cycles, but have also ignited the creative flames of art, poetry, and mythology, enduring as timeless symbols of hope and beauty.

In the realm of religion, stars occupy a revered position across various faiths and cultures, embodying divine manifestations, celestial emblems, and sources of spiritual guidance. Beyond these multifaceted dimensions, stars serve as a unifying thread that transcends both time and cultural boundaries, binding us together through our insatiable curiosity, our enduring spiritual connection to the cosmos, and our collective awe at the enigmatic mysteries of the universe.

In this article, I will delve deeper into the study of the eight-pointed star, a compelling exemplar of how celestial objects like stars can carry profound significance for humanity, owing to their rich history of symbolism across diverse cultures and religions.

What’s an eight-pointed star?

In geometry, an 8-pointed star is a geometric shape formed by the intersection of two squares, typically with one square rotated at a 45-degree angle relative to the other. It features eight distinct points or vertices radiating outward from a central point. The resulting figure often resembles an octagonal star and is commonly referred to as an octagram. This shape exhibits symmetry and can be constructed using various geometric methods.

The regular octagram is characterized by equal-length sides and angles, lending it a balanced and uniform appearance. It can also exhibit different variations.

Different variations of 8-pointed star.
Image source: https://www.outofstress.com/8-pointed-star-meanings/

Meanings and origins of the 8-pointed star

Its octagonal structure serves as a distinctive emblem, signifying both protective qualities and guidance, owing to its direct alignment with the eight cardinal directions. Moreover, this celestial symbol maintains a profound connection with the number 8, a universally recognized symbol of significance and good fortune across diverse cultural landscapes. Furthermore, the star’s octagonal shape has been associated with the eight phases of human spiritual growth.

Consequently, the 8-pointed star emerges as an exceptionally versatile symbol, possessing multifaceted applications encompassing realms such as spiritual healing, the facilitation of manifestation, and the attraction of positive energies.

The 8-pointed star holds immense cultural and religious significance across various historical contexts. It symbolizes celestial entities like the moon, sun, planets, stars, and comets. Its origins trace back to ancient Mesopotamia, particularly Babylon, where it was closely associated with the goddess Ishtar. Ishtar held sway over domains such as love, fertility, and warfare, and she bore a connection to the planet Venus, often referred to as the Morning Star.

Depiction of the star of Ishtar (Image source: Jastrow via Wikipedia)

The eight-pointed star’s significance is not confined to a single cultural sphere, but rather extends its influence across diverse global civilizations. For instance, among Canada’s indigenous peoples, the eight-pointed star serves as a representation of the sun radiating its brilliance in all directions. Furthermore, several formerly Soviet republics, upon gaining independence, incorporated the eight-pointed star into their national flags, symbolizing the sun, as exemplified by the flag of Azerbaijan.

The flag of Azerbaijan (Image source: Wikipedia)

The 8-pointed star holds a prominent position within Islamic art and architecture. Emma Clark, as detailed in her book “The Art of the Islamic Garden,” elucidates that this symbol signifies God’s Throne. This symbolism is rooted in a Quranic verse that prophesies the presence of 8 angels flanking God’s Throne on the Day of Judgment, correlating with the 8 points of the star. Remarkably, upon the Throne, an inscription reads, “My Mercy Supercedes My Wrath,” instilling a profound sense of hope in God’s boundless mercy and the prospect of salvation.

“And the angels are at its edges. And there will bear the Throne of your Lord above them, that Day, eight [of them]”

SURAH AL-HAQQAH AYAT 17 (69:17 QURAN)

This numerical symbolism extends to the architectural layouts of various mosques, with notable examples including the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock with Najmat al Kods, traditionally believed to occupy the site of Solomon’s Temple.

The Rub-el-Hzib and the more floral Najmat-al-Quds

(Image source: https://farbound.net/najmat-al-quds-star-of-jerusalem-humayuns-mausoleum-nizzamuddin-east/)

Also, its predecessor, the symbol Rub El Hizb, characterized by two intersecting squares enclosing a central circle, holds particular significance within the Islamic context: in Arabic, the expression “Rub El Hizb” signifies an object or concept divided into quarters, visually reflected in the symbol itself, where two squares have their edges divided into segments.

Historically, Muslims employed the Rub El Hizb as a tool for the recitation and memorization of the Quran. The symbol serves to represent each quarter of a “Hizb,” which designates a distinct section within the holy Quran.

Rub El Hezb Symbole (Image source : LACMA/Wikimedia Commons/Public Domain)

In the world of Central Asian art and culture, the eight-pointed star enjoys prominence in numerous blue ceramic mosaics, exemplifying its enduring cultural appeal.

Within Christian sacred art, the eight-pointed Star of Bethlehem plays a pivotal role, guiding the three wise men to the birthplace of Christ and symbolizing the nativity of Christ and the redemption he offers to humanity.

Adoration of the Magi by Florentine painter Giotto di Bondone (1267–1337).

The Star of Bethlehem is shown as a comet above the child. 
(Image source: Hohum via Wikipedia)

In Hinduism, the Ashtha Lakshmi, also known as the star of Lakshmi, is a symbol made of two squares placed on top of each other at a 45-degree angle. This symbol represents the eight different forms of the goddess Lakshmi. Lakshmi is highly regarded as the goddess of fortune, wealth, and abundance.

This symbol is widely recognized and appreciated for its simplicity and is shared among various religions and civilizations around the world.

The initial emergence of the eight-pointed star in Islamic symbolism

Built between 687 and 691 A.D. during the rule of Arab Caliphs Abd-al-Malik and Al Walid I of the Umayyad dynasty, the Dome of the Rock stands as a significant achievement in Islamic architecture. It also served as an educational hub for Arabian architects and artists.

Inspired by Sassanid Persians, the Arabs embraced features like grand arches, ornate ornamentation, and Persian-style gardens. They also learned from the Byzantines how to construct large domes on tall drums, a technique seen in later Islamic structures worldwide, including the mausoleum of Humayun in Hindustan and the Taj Mahal.

The Dome of the Rock.
(Image source: Andrew Shiva via Wikipedia | CC BY-SA 4.0)

The Dome of the Rock took cues from early Roman-Byzantine structures with an octagonal floor plan, a fusion of circle and square. It was crafted by Byzantine Christian artisans following Islamic guidelines, fostering the exchange of construction techniques, interior design, and a passion for mathematics, especially geometry, among the Muslim Arab community.

Inside, the shrine featured intricate marble works, glass mosaics, and Arabic calligraphy. The eight-pointed star emerged as a symbol, blending into the decor and architectural design.

The most famous eight-pointed star in Malaysia

At the outset, the twin towers were conceived with a modest height of 1400 feet (427m) in mind. However, it was the vision and determination of Dr. Mahathir that transformed them into a global architectural marvel. He saw the potential for these towers to not only be significant structures but also iconic symbols of Malaysia’s ambition and identity on the world stage.

The design of Petronas tower.
(Image source: https://www.petronastwintowers.com.my/)

The PETRONAS Towers’ connection to Islamic symbolism is strikingly evident in their design, which forms an eight-pointed star when viewed from above. This architectural choice holds profound cultural and symbolic significance in Islamic tradition. The eight-pointed star symbolizes unity, harmony, and stability, reflecting the principles of balance and togetherness. Islamic art and geometric patterns heavily influence the towers’ aesthetics.

This incorporation of Islamic symbolism and aesthetics is a testament to the architects cultural sensitivity, acknowledging Malaysia’s Islamic heritage while simultaneously projecting the nation’s modernity and ambition on the global stage. The PETRONAS Towers stand not only as architectural marvels but also as iconic representations of Malaysia’s rich cultural tapestry and its its harmonious blend of tradition and progress.

References

  1. Eight Pointed Star Rug Design: https://nazmiyalantiquerugs.com/area-rug-guide/motifs-symbols/eight-pointed-stars-rug-design-motif/#:~:text=Christianity%3A%20In%20Christianity%2C%20the%208,the%20birth%20of%20Jesus%20Christ.
  2. Giotto – Scrovegni – -18- – Adoration of the Magi: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Giotto_-_Scrovegni_-_-18-_-_Adoration_of_the_Magi.jpg?uselang=en#Licensing
  3. Juz’ 1 of the Quran : https://www.learnreligions.com/juz-1-of-the-quran-2004552
  4. Learn About the Meaning of an Eight Pointed Star : https://mythologian.net/learn-about-the-meaning-of-an-eight-pointed-star/#:~:text=The%20eight%2Dpointed%20star%20represents,Hope%20symbol%20as%20Star%20Knowledge.
  5. PETRONAS Twin Towers: https://www.petronastwintowers.com.my/
  6. Rub el Hizb : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rub_el_Hizb
  7. Star of David : https://www.researchgate.net/publication/304113265_Star_of_David
  8. Symbolic attribute of the eight-pointed star and its relation to Imam Reza (AS) based on the numbers science (abjad) : https://hsi.kashanu.ac.ir/article_111923.html?lang=en
  9. The star that is a landmark in Islamic architecture. : https://farbound.net/najmat-al-quds-star-of-jerusalem-humayuns-mausoleum-nizzamuddin-east/
  10. What You Should Know About Octagrams – Eight-Pointed Stars : https://www.learnreligions.com/octagrams-eight-pointed-stars-96015

Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge No. 5 (TT5) – A Refurbished Dredge in All its Glory

By V. Jegatheesan

Tanjung Tualang Dredge No. 5. Image credit: V. Jegatheesan.

The Tanjung Tualang tin dredge, also popularly referred to as TT5, is an old dredge that went out of use as the tin industry faded away in the 1980s, with tin giving way mainly to aluminium. Nostalgia and a keen interest in preserving this machinery, led to its refurbishment, so as to give the populace a chance to see how it worked and how it helped the tin mining industry. It is now located on the 9th Km, Jln Tanjung Tualang, 31000 Batu Gajah.

Tin has been a lucrative product in Malaya for a long time. The Dutch of the 18th century were well known to have negotiated agreements for tin supplies from the areas around Pulau Pangkor and Kuala Selangor. However, mining methods, such as panning, were very basic. A large tray or dulang, was used to scoop water and sand in the rivers. The sand and earth would be filtered out and the heavy ore would remain. This would be further processed to make ingots and then sold, ending up ultimately as tin products. Tin has had many uses. Its main usage was in the canning industry, making bullets and, nowadays, in the electronic industry in solder. Interestingly, while many think a tin can is all tin, it is actually a tinned can – a steel can, which gives it strength, plated with tin, which prevents corrosion!

Dulang washing was of course an arduous process and not very productive. Subsequently, better technology emerged including opencast tin mining in which pumps shoot water at high pressure onto the sloping ground. The loosened earth or slurry is conveyed to the top of a sluice – palong – andwater pushes it down trellises; the heavier ore is held back by wooden slats while the rest of the earth and sand flows into a large lake. The recovered ore is then sent to a smelter for further processing and export. This was still labour-intensive. These methods were used until the end of the large-scale tin-producing era. Dulang washing is back in practice with the current rise in demand for tin.

Image credit: A poster in the TT5 Visitor Centre

The dredge evolved from a simple ‘spoon dredge’ in 1862 through to the bucket dredge of the 1880s used in New Zealand and Australia. Since 1891, attempts were made to construct a dredge in Kinta, but all failed. In January 1913, Malayan Tin Dredging Ltd. initiated the first operational dredge in Batu Gajah; it later owned six of them. These were steam-operated. The TT5 is one of the five owned by its sister company, Southern Malayan Tin Dredging Ltd. It was built in 1938 by F. W. Payne and Company. Upgraded and electrified in 1963, it ceased operations in August 1982. In 1997, the Malaysian Mining Corporation (MMC), which subsequently owned the dredge, donated TT5 to the Perak State Government, which, since 2017, has spent almost Rm 10 million on its repair and maintenance.

A dredge in those days typically cost Rm 40 million to build. At today’s prices, a dredge would cost Rm 200 million. This behemoth could scrap up tin-bearing earth, 24/7, as is said nowadays. In very large quantities too. However, the cost was prohibitive so only companies with the ability to lay out large capital could afford the dredge. These were usually European companies, mainly British. This is why, other tin-mining methods continued. In due course, 123 dredges produced 60% of the tin, while other methods produced the remaining 40%. In 1912 some 80 per cent of Malaya’s tin production was under Chinese management, by 1931 British firms accounted for more than 60 per cent of total tin production.

Those who travelled along the Penang Singapore trunk road would remember seeing these dredges. But we all drove past assuming they would always be there. But not so. Over the years, greater use of aluminium, falling tin prices as well as increased production in Indonesia and China adversely affected the production in Malaysia. It was simply not economically viable.

TT5 is now restored to showcase how these mighty machines worked to contribute to the economy of Malaysia. Its actual operation area was not far off from where it is now located. A guided tour is provided and takes about 30 minutes. In fact this article transcribes the tour by Volunteer Guide, Encik Hafizal Arif. Note that this article describes TT5 only as other dredges will differ in size and equipment.

The process in its elements is very simple. Large quantities of tin-bearing earth were continuously scrapped from the ground by a conveyor made up of large metal buckets, processed mechanically to separate the tin from the earth, collect the tin and discharge the rest back into the lake on which it floats. A more detailed description, avoiding technicalities, is transcribed from the guided tour.

The dredge weighs 4500 tons and is 75m in length, 19.5m in width and four floors in height. A NO ADMITANCE signage at the entrance is in English, Chinese, Punjabi, Jawi and Tamil, reflecting the various groups of people working on this dredge.

Signage reflecting the various groups working on the dredge.
Image credit: V. Jegatheesan.

The entire structure floats on 47 pontoons. These are hollow tanks which keep the dredge afloat in the water. In this dredge, the pontoons are 3.1m deep and are accessible for maintenance, mainly patching leaks.

           Pontoon top with the cover off. Image credit: Maganjeet Kaur.

TT5 has 115 buckets. These two-ton buckets are set on a looping chain, or ladder, in the front of the dredge. The ladder continuously circulates and can be lowered for the buckets to scrape the lake bed or the earth face on the lakesides beneath the water. Being a moderately-sized dredge, TT5 can scrape down to 33m. Other dredges can go down to even 100m.

Buckets on the looping chain. Image credit: V. Jegatheesan.

As the now three-ton buckets move up the ladder, they carry the scooped earth to the top of the dredge into trommel screens. These screens are cylindrical and perforated.

Jets of water wash through the earth in the trommel screen to separate the heavier tin ore. The ore is passed into vibrating jigs to further filter the ore. The jig is equipped with a screen or sieve that allows smaller particles to pass through while retaining the larger, denser particles. After a second jig, the purer ore (Cassiterite Concentrate) is channelled to be stored in tanks. We were restricted from visiting this area. The water used in the screen and jigs is pumped up from the lake itself. The sand and unwanted material after these processes, called tailings, are discharged through the chutes out at the back of the dredge into the lake.

The tank can hold one ton and one day’s dredging produced 30 tons. A crane on either side will carry the tanks out to the lakeside. It is later sent to the smelting plant in Penang. The resulting ingots are then exported.

A rough estimate values a day’s production at 30,000 to 35,000 USD of the time. It seems that a year’s production could recover the cost of the dredge! This is the reason that the tank area access is limited only to authorized personnel to prevent theft by stuffing ore into pockets or helmets. Even the discharge chutes for the tailings have a spider web netting to prevent anyone from climbing in.

Hafizal Arif explaining the storage tank for the ore. Image credit: V. Jegatheesan

Spider netting encircling the discharge chutes. Image credit: V. Jegatheesan.

A description of the dredging process. Image credit: Maganjeet Kaur

              Poster in the Visitor Centre. Image credit The Tin Board.

The operation is managed by a Dredge master. Employees work in three shifts and do not live on board. They are ferried by a small boat. Each shift has 20 people. There is a pantry area for them to rest and have their meals, which are brought by them as there are no cooking facilities. There is a toilet at the back, over the lake.

Pantry at the top. Image credit: Maganjeet Kaur.

Though TT5 is tethered to the lakeside by ropes today, the dredge had cables in front and sides. The cables were attached to a mooring winch. The dredge could be moved by winching in or out.

Tethering of dredge to the side. Right image shows the gangway to the dredge. Image credit: V. Jegatheesan.

Views of either side of the dredge decks. Image credit: V. Jegatheesan.

Over the years, dredges have been sold to Thailand or Indonesia, while some have even been scrapped.In 2015, the Perak State Government mandated the Menteri Besar Incorporated (MB Inc.) to conserve the TT5. Visitors can go onto the dredge and its workings are explained by guides. Visits can be made by calling ahead and specifying a time slot or walking in to join the next group.

Board showing layout of the TT5 Park. Image credit: V. Jegatheesan.

Since 2018, TT5 has been part of the Kinta Valley National Geopark. The Visitors Centre and TT5 tours are managed by the Operation Executive, Encik Aizad Azeli.

To cap the extensive works to preserve the TT5, in March 2023, the Institution of Mechanical Engineers United Kingdom, presented Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge No.5 an Engineering Heritage Award for being well-maintained, contributing to the state and national economy and having its own heritage characteristics. It is the first tin mining dredge to receive such an award.

Image credit: New Straits Times 2023, March 23

In 2023, TT5 received the Travellers Choice Award from Tripadvsor.

TT5 is well worth a visit.

References:

Last surviving tin dredge TT5 receives IMechE award from UK. (2023, March 23). The New Straits Times. https://www.nst.com.my/news/nation/2023/03/892188/last-surviving-tin-dredge-tt5-receives-imeche-award-uk#:~:text=BATU%20GAJAH%3A%20The%20iconic%20Tanjung,Engineers%20(IMechE)%20United%20Kingdom.

EARLY 20TH CENTURY TIN MINING DEVELOPMENT. In Economic Heritage Malaya. https://www.ehm.my/publications/articles/about-tin-mining#:~:text=EARLY%2020TH%20CENTURY%20TIN%20MINING,much%20of%20the%2020th%20century.

A gold mine in tin. (2007, August 30). In Malaysian Bar. https://www.malaysianbar.org.my/article/news/legal-and-general-news/general-news/a-gold-mine-in-tin

Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge. (2023). httpstt5perak.com

The Islamic Art of Wood Carving

By Emna Esseghir

Introduction

God is beautiful and He loves beauty.

— Tradition (hadith) of the Prophet Muhammad from Sahih Muslim

Within the Islamic theological framework, a core tenet asserts that God possesses the attribute of beauty, and this inherent beauty finds manifestation in His creations. It is a frequently reiterated notion that God is intrinsically beautiful, and He exhibits an affinity for aesthetics and beauty. This theological premise underscores the significance of aesthetics, harmony, and beauty across diverse facets of Islamic culture, encompassing art, architectural design, and the ethical comportment of individuals.

The concept that God cherishes beauty is intrinsically associated with the idea that human beings are encouraged to both recognise and cultivate beauty in their actions and environmental milieu. This is prominently exemplified in the rich artistic and architectural traditions of Islamic civilisation, wherein intricate designs, eloquent calligraphy, and geometric patterns are judiciously employed to embellish religious edifices, palatial structures, and various other architectural forms.

One of the major elements used to express this beauty in Islamic art was wood carving.

1. What is wood carving?

Wood, as the most abundant natural resource, has historically captivated the attention of humankind. Intriguingly, in numerous regions of the Islamic world, wood is relatively scarce, yet it enjoys a distinguished status and necessitates a high degree of craftsmanship. Within the context of Islamic art and architectural construction, woodcarving emerges as a prominent technique, particularly in the context of mosque construction. This art form exerts a profound influence, elevating the aesthetic appeal of these religious edifices while imbuing them with profound symbolism.

Woodcarving, at its core, entails the intricate creation of designs in wood, achieved through manual dexterity and specialised carving implements. The array of motifs ranges from the intricate and traditional to geometric precision or abstract patterns. A pivotal preliminary step in woodcarving involves the meticulous identification of the wood’s grain and texture before embarking on the carving process. The resulting carved elements consistently manifest in an abstract fashion, representing botanical elements or geometric configurations and can be categorised into three distinct architectural components: structural, elemental, and ornamental.

Woodcarving serves as both a technique and a final product, in which wood is meticulously shaped into decorative and artistic forms. Wood, as a widely accessible and sustainable resource, is available in diverse sizes suitable for crafting objects of various scales, from minor artefacts to grand architectural structures. Its intrinsic robustness enables it to bear substantial loads and span extensive areas. Furthermore, wood is amenable to manipulation by a judicious application of manual labor and lends itself readily to precision shaping using rudimentary hand tools. Its innate spectrum of colors, tonal nuances, and susceptibility to diverse surface treatments enhance its allure, rendering it an aesthetically pleasing and adaptable material.

2. Historic evolution of wood carving art in the Islamic world

Undoubtedly, the artistic evolution of wood carving among Muslim artisans during the formative centuries of Islam constitutes a remarkable historical and artistic phenomenon. This creative metamorphosis was profoundly molded by the convergence of Hellenistic (in the eastern Mediterranean and Middle East, the period between the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BCE and the conquest of Egypt by Rome in 30 BCE) and Sassanian artistic influences (officially known as Eranshahr was the last Iranian empire before the early Muslim conquests of the 7th–8th centuries AD).

The amalgamation of these disparate traditions ignited the development of a distinctive Islamic wood-carving style that left an enduring imprint on the artistic panorama of the Islamic realm.

A prominent exemplar of early Abbasid wood carving, symbolising the culmination of these influences, resides in the prayer pulpit enshrined within the Qairawan mosque in Tunisia. This masterful creation, likely transported from Baghdad during the third/ninth century under the patronage of influential figures from the Aghlabid dynasty, stands as an epitome of wood-carving craftsmanship affiliated with the Baghdad School.

Adorned with meticulously crafted panels featuring geometric motifs and designs, it is believed to have been commissioned during the reign of Harun, the Abbasid Caliph.

This architectural marvel remains a source of inspiration for contemporary abstract art, serving as a testament to the enduring relevance of its patterns and designs.

An old postcard (1900) showing the carved teak 
Minbar and the Maqsura. Photo source: Wikimedia

The intricate detailing of the minbar.
Photo source: Issam Barhoumi- Wikimedia  

Over time, Abbasid artists developed their own unique style, breaking away from the artistic traditions of the Sassanian and Hellenistic periods. This new Abbasid style became popular among Egyptian craftsmen during the Tulunid era (935-969), especially in Cairo.

As the Abbasid artistic style matured, Egyptian craftsmen refined it further, creating a distinctive artistic expression by the 10th century. They began carving deeper and creating more rounded shapes, showcasing their creative skills.

Assessing how Egypt’s rich heritage of crafts and arts influenced the advancement of wood-carving by Egyptian artists is a complex task. Egypt’s legacy offered fertile ground for innovation, contributing to the mastery of Egyptian wood carving.

Over time, geometric patterns gave way to different forms of decoration, like intricate carvings of animals and arabesque scrolls. These works demonstrated the artists’ meticulous attention to detail, combining technical expertise and hard work.

During the Fatimid era, some wood panels stood out for their exquisite artistry. They portrayed typical Egyptian scenes, with a strong focus on birds and animals, reflecting the ancient Egyptian tradition of revering specific animals as deities, adding a cultural dimension to the wood carvings.

In the Ayyubid period, the influence of the Fatimids continued in wood carving, with arabesque scrolls becoming more intricate. The use of nasj script instead of Kufic inscriptions reflected evolving artistic tastes. This period also saw a greater commitment to intricate detailing, emphasising the dedication of the artists.

Panel with Inscription probably 13th century
Photo source: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448499

In Egypt, wood carving reached its peak over time but gradually declined in the 15th century, marking a significant turning point in its evolution.

Conversely, in Iran, wood carving was mature even during Mahmud of Ghazni’s rule during Ghaznavide empire. A preserved door from his tomb in the Agra Museum demonstrates the innovative approach of Iranian artists, characterised by deep undercutting and multiple planes, showcasing an Iranian stylistic imprint.

Gates of the tomb of Mahmud of Ghazni, (James Atkinson in 1842)

Although there are relatively few wood carvings from the Saljug period, it’s reasonable to believe that artists in Asia Minor during the 12th and 13th centuries crafted exceptional works, resonating with the quality seen in Egypt and Syria.

Wooden Sarcophagus from the Seljuk Period
the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art in Istanbul.
Photo source: https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/seljuq-period.html?sortBy=relevant

While wood carvings from the early Mongol period are scarce, historical evidence suggests that Iranian artists in Western Turkestan achieved remarkable technical perfection in the 14th century. The zenith of wood carving persisted during the Safavid period, although signs of decline appeared in the 17th and 18th centuries. During this era, panels transitioned from intricate carving to painting and lacquering, marking a transformative phase in the history of Islamic wood carving.

Wood carving from Safavid Period. Photo source: Hayk – Wikimedia

3. Wood carved artefacts with Islamic influence at the National Museum

The practice of traditional Malay wood carving represents a seminal facet within the domain of Malay cultural heritage, encompassing profound and substantive cultural importance.

It predates the arrival of Islam, but since the adoption of Islam as the religion of the Melaka Sultanate, we can distinguish some specific characteristics:

Integration of Arabic Calligraphy: A defining feature of Malay wood carvings within Islamic art is the sophisticated integration of Arabic calligraphy. These carvings frequently incorporate Quranic verses or excerpts from Islamic texts, meticulously inscribed with exceptional finesse. The utilisation of calligraphy transcends mere ornamental aesthetics; it serves as a conduit for the visual representation of sacred Islamic scripture, infusing these wooden artefacts with profound religious significance. The interplay of script styles, such as Kufic or Naskh, further underscores the artistic and spiritual dimensions of these carvings.

Doors panels inscribed with Quranic verses, on display at
Gallery B, National Museum. Photo source: Emna Esseghir

Wooden panel with sentence from the Holy Quran used to
decorate a muslim chapel, on display at Gallery B, National Museum.
Photo source: Emna Esseghir

The Setul palace door, displayed at Gallery B, National Museum.
Photo source: Maganjeet Kaur

Harmonious Synthesis of Malay and Islamic Aesthetics: A salient feature of these carvings is their ability to harmoniously blend indigenous Malay motifs with Islamic artistic elements. This synthesis culminates in a unique visual language that encapsulates the multifaceted cultural identity of the Malay-Muslim community. By seamlessly interweaving Malay flora for example with Islamic motifs, these carvings offer a nuanced expression of both regional and religious identities, emphasising their role as cultural artefacts and religious conveyors.

Wooden panel with flora and sentence from the Holy Quran,
on display at Gallery B, National Museum. Photo source: Emna Esseghir

To conclude, Arabic Calligraphy meticulously inscribed with Quranic verses adds profound religious significance, while geometric precision reflects metaphysical themes. The harmonious synthesis of Malay and Islamic aesthetics highlights cultural identity. But beyond aesthetics, these carvings serve functional roles in Islamic architecture, enhancing sacred spaces and connecting the physical and spiritual realms. In essence, Malay wood carvings contribute significantly to the artistry and spirituality of the Malay-Muslim heritage.

References

A Study of Woodcarving Motifs on Traditional Malay Houses in Kuala Pilah, Negeri Sembilan: https://melaka.uitm.edu.my/ijad/images/PDF/1.pdf

DEVELOPMENT OF MALAY WOOD-CARVING MOTIFS FROM ISLAMIC PERSPECTIVES: https://oarep.usim.edu.my/jspui/bitstream/123456789/14524/1/4.BI.%20SAIS2021%20-%20Development%20Of%20Malay%20Wood-Carving%20Motifs%20From%20Islamic%20Perspectives.pdf 

Fatimid Wood-Carvings in the Victoria and Albert Museum: https://www.jstor.org/stable/862433

Gates of the tomb of Mahmud of Ghazni, by James Atkinson in 1842: https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Gates_of_the_tomb_of_Mahmud_of_Ghazni,_by_James_Atkinson_in_1842.jpg

JULFA i. SAFAVID PERIOD: https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/julfa-i-safavid-period

Panel with Inscription: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448499

The Islamic Art of Wood Carving: Exquisite Patterns on Furniture and Decorative Objects: https://russia-islworld.ru/en/kultura/the-islamic-art-of-wood-carving-exquisite-patterns-on-furniture-and-decorative-objects-2023-08-01-34970/

Wooden Sarcophagus from the Seljuk Period: https://etc.usf.edu/clippix/picture/wooden-sarcophagus-from-the-seljuk-period.htm

M & M – Muzium Negara & Mini Marathon

By Eric Lim

On 31 August 2023, our country celebrated its 66th National Day. This auspicious day also marked the 60th anniversary of Muzium Negara / National Museum since its establishment. The National Museum was officially declared opened by the Third Yang DiPertuan Agong, Tuanku Syed Putra Al-Haj Ibni Almarhum Syed Hassan Jamalullail (Raja of Perlis) in 1963.

The opening of Muzium Negara on 31 August 1963 / Photo source: National Museum’s 60th Anniversary Exhibition: A Retrospective. 

The present Muzium Negara building was constructed on the site of the former Selangor Museum which stood from 1906 to 1945. On 10 March 1945, a part of the building was mistakenly bombed by the Allied Forces and many artefacts were moved to the Perak Museum in Taiping. After Malaya’s Independence, the idea of establishing a National Museum was mooted and plans to build one was announced in 1959. Ho Kok Hoe, an architect from Singapore was commissioned to design the building and in 1961, Tunku Abdul Rahman endorsed the architectural design. 

The design is based on the architectural characteristics of the palaces of the Malay Kings and another unique feature is the two huge murals made of Venetian glass mosaic that cover the facade of the building. The murals highlight the history and craft of the country respectively and it was designed by Cheong Lai Tong. The mosaic tiles were donated by Lee Kong Chian (of Lee Rubber) and Tan Kah Hee (founder of Xiamen University, China). Also, the tiles in the main hall were contributed by the Government of Pakistan. Back then, the National Museum together with Parliament house, National Monument (Tugu Negara) and the Lake Gardens (Perdana Botanical Garden today), formed a large recreational space. And the National Museum was certified a National Heritage Building under the National Heritage Act 2005 on 11 August 2015.

Muzium Negara / Photo source : National Museum

In conjunction with the jubilee anniversary celebration, the Department of Museums Malaysia (Jabatan Muzium Malaysia / JMM), organized a host of activities for four days starting from 31 August to 3 September. It includes two major exhibitions, National Museum’s 60th Anniversary Exhibition : A Retrospective at the main hall and Malaysia My Motherland Exhibition at Galeri 2, both running from 31 August to 31 October. Besides exhibitions, other programmes were Echo : Poetry Night, Mini concert, Media & Strategic Partner Appreciation Ceremony, National Museum 60th Anniversary Run (Mini Marathon) and launching of the Time Capsule by the Minister of National Unity, Aaron Aro Dagang at the official opening ceremony held on 1 September. 

Museum Volunteers (MV) which is a non-profit, non-political and non-religious group supported by the Department of Museums Malaysia and based at Muzium Negara, was invited to some of the events. The highlight was the giving away of graduation certificates by the Director General of the Department of Museums Malaysia to graduates from Batch 38 and 39 at the Media & Strategic Partner Appreciation Ceremony held on the evening of 1 September at the Mainstage (Pentas Utama). It was truly a memorable occasion for the fresh graduates as it was the first time that it was organized on such a grand scale. At the same function, JMM also awarded a certificate to senior MV member, V. Jegatheesan (fondly known as Jega) for his significant contributions to the group.

MV graduates and Jega with their certificates.
Photo source: Courtesy of Lim Ee Lin

MV members also took part in the National Museum 60th Anniversary Run (Mini Marathon) that was held on 3 September 2023. The run was separated into two categories, namely the 5km Fun Run and the 10km Run.

A map of the 10km marathon route. Photo source: Eric Lim

The longer route covered the perimeter of Perdana Botanical Garden with a detour towards Masjid Negara (National Mosque), and a turnaround before heading back to the garden to the finishing line at Muzium Negara.

Enroute, we passed the following sites:
Royal Lake Club Kuala Lumpur (Kelab Taman Perdana DiRaja Kuala Lumpur)
It was founded on 16 August 1890, two years after the Lake Gardens was established. Initially set up for the British working in the country, it has since evolved to become a leading cosmopolitan social club. In 1985, the name changed to Royal Lake Club when it was bestowed the royal patronage by the late Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah of Selangor.

KL Bird Park
The KL Bird Park is the world’s largest free flight walk-in aviary. It is home to more than 3,000 birds comprising over 200 different species. It was opened in 1991.

Tun Abdul Razak Memorial
It was the official residence building of our second Prime Minister, Tun Abdul Razak, from 1962 until his passing in January 1976. It was then known as Sri Taman Building. The building was later turned into a museum and was officially opened to the public on 6 May 1982 to commemorate his service and contributions to the country.

National Planetarium (Planetarium Negara)
It had its soft opening to the public in 1993 and was officially opened by the then Prime Minister, Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad on 7 February 1994. The National Planetarium is within walking distance from Muzium Negara, connected by an overhead pedestrian bridge.

I was initially undecided whether to go for the fun run or 10km but thanks to fellow MV Emna who coaxed me into taking the longer route. I managed to complete within the time limit but I must admit that I lost out to avid runner and Hong Kong actor, Chow Yun Fat who still continues his running regimen in spite of the injuries he suffered two months ago. Kudos to fellow MVs who completed the run, short or long. The run was a perfect wrap up for the Muzium Negara celebrations.

MVs with their finishing medals.
Photo source: Courtesy of Kulwant Kaur

References

HK actor Chow Yun-fat continues to run despite doctors’ orders to stop following fall | Malay Mail: https://www.malaymail.com/news/showbiz/2023/08/15/hk-actor-chow-yun-fat-continues-to-run-despite-doctors-orders-to-stop-following-fall/85336

Lake Gardens Kuala Lumpur | Attractions | Wonderful Malaysia: https://www.wonderfulmalaysia.com/attractions/lake-gardens-kuala-lumpur.htm

Memorial Tun Abdul Razak: http://www.arkib.gov.my/web/guest/memorial-tun-abdul-razak3

National Museum: http://www.muziumnegara.gov.my/en/national-museum

Royal Lake Club: https://www.royallakeclub.org.my/

Malaysia Tanah Airku – Curator’s Tour

Article by Subramaniam a/l A V Sankar

Curator Encik Nasrulamiazam giving us a walk-through of the exhibition.

The exhibition poster. Source: Muzium Negara

6 fortunate MVs who could respond to a 1-day notice were fortunate to have had a conducted tour of the exhibition Malaysia Tanah Airku (Malaysia, My Homeland) on Thursday 7th Sept, by the exhibition Curator himself, Encik Nasrulamiazam, the Deputy Director of Muzium Negara, now being held at Gallery 2 in Muzium Negara until October 2023.

The exhibition is shown through 7 sections within starting with the early history of Tanah Air – the archipelago and island territories of South east Asia stretching from Indo-China to Indonesia.

At the introduction section of the exhibition.

These lands were also referred to as Nanyang in the Chinese records, Suvarnabhumi and Golden Chersonese in Indian and European records and comprised lands populated by expert Malay seafarers who facilitated trade all the way from China to India.

In this 1st section, Tanah Airku, our own part of that world, Malaysia is highlighted! Various texts by varied international scholars and traders are exhibited in the 1st gallery to show the importance of our nation in the ancient world.

There are many rare, 1st edition copies of Merdeka news and Articles here to capture the mood of independence in 1957.

In the next gallery is a fascinating insight into various selected flora and fauna in our country.

A display of the taxidermy collection.

The flora shown is mostly of those used as herbs with medicinal qualities, a very educational insight into the richness of our tropical flora.

A replica of the rafflesia.

The fauna is shown through expert taxidermy work on various birds, reptiles and mammals and highlights the colourful diversity found here. It is a great chance to get close to wild animals in safety!

The hawksbill turtle.

In section 3, we get to see panoramic photos of iconic buildings in places around the country both as stills and videos. The quality of the photography is breathtaking and gives a unique, bird’s eye view of many familiar, iconic features, like the KL Mosque, to give a fresh insight and a 3D view to provide mesmerizing new angles to sights we thought we knew.

The exhibition then moves to the entertainment scene and highlights particularly the versatility of our cartoonist, Lat and film and acting legend, P Ramlee through their many cartoons and films, a nostalgic reminder to all.

The last gallery shows our sporting legends like Lee Chong Wei and other sports achievements in the country with displays of some of the old soccer and rugby trophies that were gloriously earned.

The exhibition is a work of love and done with passion by the Curator and well worth a visit to get the ‘feel good’ effect we enjoyed.

Our group photo with the Curator.

Heartfelt thanks to Curator Encik Nasrulamiazam for his efforts and explanations.

That Other Capital City Across the South China Sea

By Chuah Siew Yen

Situated in north west Borneo, on the banks of the Sarawak River at approximately the same latitude of Kuala Lumpur, across the South China Sea, is Kuching.

Kuching was trading town for at least two centuries under the Bruneian Sultanate. In 1841, it became the capital of the Brooke ‘Rajah-dom’ after the territory west of the Sarawak River was ceded to James Brooke. From then on, Kuching became Sarawak’s capital, receiving attention and development, which continued under the second Rajah, Charles Brooke. After the third Rajah, Charles Vyner Brooke ceded Sarawak as part of the British Crown Colony in 1946, Kuching remained its capital … and retained its status as state capital after the formation of Malaysia in 1963.

Granted city status in 1988, the City of Kuching is administered by two separate local authorities – Kuching North (administered by a Commissioner) and Kuching South (administered by a Mayor). Kuching experienced further development and was declared ‘City of Unity’ for its racial harmony, on 29 July 2015 by One Malaysia Foundation. 

This capital city is the main gateway for travellers visiting Sarawak and Borneo, and a member of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network (Field of Gastronomy).

Aerial view of Kuching City. To the left is north Kuching with the State Legislative Building dominating, and south Kuching to the right. Source: YouTube, Gazetica Explorer

Being driven around the city on a recent visit, I observed its natural and built heritage.  As I mingled and chatted with its people and enjoyed the cuisine, I can attest to the fact that Kuching is indeed a city of unity as well as a city of gastronomy and creativity.  

The diversity that we see in Kuching touches all spheres of life, from the people and nature to culture and food. This is the place where traditions thrive and history remains in the time-worn streets of Old Kuching where stories of the White Rajahs are retained. Kuching holds on to its past as it moves into the present. Juxtaposed among the new are Brooke era buildings in neo-classical and baroque designs which peer out in between modern contemporary structures. At every turn in the city, one is greeted with a mosque, temple, church or colonial building.  

Sitting majestically on the north bank of the Sarawak River is the State Legislative Building with its distinctive umbrella-inspired roof, also reminiscent of the Bidayuh longhouse and the Melanau hat. Here, Sarawak’s 82 elected representatives (assemblymen and women) debate and pass laws.

In the courtyard of Fort Margherita with award-winning guide, Edward Mansel, who took us on a walking tour ‘On the Trail of the White Rajahs’. Photo by author.

The Astana was built in 1870 by Charles Brooke. It was the venue for various meetings of the General Council from 1873 – 1937. Laid out in the style of an English manor house, it was the third and last residence built by the Brooke Rajahs. Photo source: Old Kuching Smart Heritage booklet.

Walking along the waterfront, the Darul Hana Bridge catches the eye with its two towers designed to complement the hornbill-like structure of this 2017 icon. This S-shaped bridge, 12 meters above the water, is the only pedestrian crossing linking north and south Kuching.     

The bot penambang (water taxi) still makes the crossing as it is the fastest and probably the cheapest way to cross the river, especially for the villagers of Kampung Boyan, Kampung Gersik and surrounds.

On the opposite bank of the river, moving away from the promenade, are the historical and heritage buildings that give Kuching its unique character such as Sarawak’s former administrative centre found in the Old Courthouse built in 1874, and the hub of the earliest trading activities. The area is a meeting spot of old and newer mosques, Brooke-era buildings, Chinese temples, and shop houses along India Street, a covered pedestrian street lined with shops and stalls selling textiles and sundries. The city then was a self-segregated area where heterogeneous communities of Chinese, Indian, and Malays lived and thrived in different areas while peacefully co-existing with each other.

Midway is a narrow alley named Masjid India Lane that passes by the entrance of the India Mosque and leads to Jalan Gambier, where Kuching’s Indian spice traders and Chinese hardware merchants are found. Further up is Carpenter Street, named for the many woodwork shops set up in the last century.

When James Brooke landed in 1839, the row of shops along the river were made of wood and nipah. This Attap Street soon became the prime trading area due to its proximity to the original piers, where goods were unloaded at the jetties and wharfs. Business activities picked up, and in 1872, the second Rajah had some shops rebuilt with bricks, with a 5-foot walkway in front connecting the shops of each block.  

A street of Kuching town shortly after the surrender of Japan, image taken on 12 Sept 1945. Shops with 5-foot walkway visible. Photo source: Australian War Memorial

In 1884, a fire ravaged the wooden buildings, but these were quickly rebuilt with bricks. They are the quaint old shops we see today in Main Bazaar Road facing the river—a vestige of Kuching’s past, a lower working-class neighbourhood with hardware and bicycle shops amid gambling and opium dens, and brothels—and a haven for clandestine activities. What is interesting is that the local people were not aware of the Japanese spies in their midst who disappeared two days before the Japanese landing on 8 December 1941.

Here is the historic core of the city, well-preserved as a peaceful merging of Indians, Chinese, and Malays in its modern-day co-existence, an eclectic mix of history, culture, tradition, and community. A walk through the layers of history and architecture and everything in between is both educational and relaxing.

Main Entrance, Sarawak Club. The Club was established in 1876 for the recreational and entertainment needs of the White Rajahs and government officers. Sarawak-valued belian timber was used for the roofing truss and shingles. Photo by author.

As Kuching prospered, its boundaries expanded with de-centralisation combined with development of new commercial centres. Hotels, shopping malls, tertiary education institutions, civic and religious structures, and infrastructure were constructed or upgraded to meet the needs of an evolving demographic trend towards urbanisation and modernity. As in the past, Sarawak’s built environment was largely concentrated in Kuching, it being the capital and government centre.

After the opening of the Tun Abdul Rahman Yacob Bridge in 1974, the development of the city shifted from the old town to the northern side of the Sarawak River. Many government offices relocated here and Petra Jaya is now the administrative centre for the Sarawak Government. 

The State Library of Sarawak is set amid beautiful surroundings and overlooks a man-made lake. The library offers a direct-to-consumer book borrowing service. Also in Petra Jaya, are the Sarawak Stadium, a multi-purpose sports facility with 40,000 seats, and the Sarawak State Jamek Mosque.

State Library of Sarawak (Pustaka Negeri Sarawak) in Petra Jaya Photo source: Wikimedia Commons

Greater Kuching is a metro area of 2,030 km sq., almost the size of Greater Kuala Lumpur at 2,243km sq., but with a much smaller population.

Sarawak’s population is made up of about 26 major ethnic groups, with sub-groups within them. The two biggest groups are the Ibans and the Bidayuhs. Those groups in the interior are collectively referred to as Orang Ulu (people of the interior). Inter-racial marriages, formerly rare and only between closely related groups, are increasingly common in this day and age.

The culture of some of these indigenous communities has been influenced by Islamic practices, while others have converted to Christianity. However, indigenous beliefs, customary rites, and social customs known as adat continue to be practised. Those practices, entwined with traditional beliefs, are carried out through customary law or adat.   

The Floating Mosque sits on the banks of the Sarawak River. It can accommodate 1,600 worshipers. At dusk, the architecture is accentuated when it is flooded with the light of the golden sunset. Photo source: KuchingSarawak.com – (https://www.kuchingsarawak.com/2020/01/10/top-3-beautiful-masjids-of-kuching/)

The diversity of Sarawak’s (and Kuching’s) population is seen in the places of worship throughout the city. The Floating Mosque is at least one of eight religious places in the historical core of Kuching. Masjid Bandaraya Kuching replaced the old wooden mosque in 1968. Masjid India, built in 1879, is the oldest extant in the city. Masjid Bandaraya Kuching is the main mosque in Kuching. It had served as the state mosque before the new mosque was built in Petra Jaya.

Other places of worship are St. Thomas Anglican Cathedral, originally built in 1856, followed by the neo-Gothic-style St. Joseph Cathedral, built in 1894 but has since been replaced by a modern building in 1969.

St Thomas Cathedral Kuching. Photo source: CW Food Travel (cwfoodtravel.blogspot.com/2010/01/kuching-architecture-st-thomas.html)

St. Peter’s Catholic Church is undergoing construction, which, when completed, will resemble Westminster Abbey in miniature. The Gothic-style building will have pointed spires, ogival arches, flying buttresses, rose windows, and a bell tower.

Temples in the vicinity are the Tua Pek Kong Temple, the Taoist Hong San Si Temple built in 1848, the rebuilt Siew San Teng Temple, and the 1889 Hiang Tiang Siang Ti Temple, an Indian temple and a Sikh gurdwara.

The original Sarawak Museum. Photo source: Wikipedia Commons

An aerial shot of the Borneo Cultures Museum at Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg in Kuching. Photo source: Bernama

Museums – big or small, special or unique – are found all over Kuching. Among them are the original Sarawak Museum built in 1891 by Rajah Charles Brooke. Chinese History Museum housed in the former Chinese Courthouse built in 1912 by Rajah Vyner Brooke and the Sarawak Islamic Museum housed in the 1930 Maderasah Melayu Building also built by Rajah Vyner. But the Borneo Cultures Museum (BCM) tops it all. Opened in March 2022, this 5-storey building with distinctive architectural features reflecting the traditional crafts of Sarawak, displays the best examples of Sarawak’s material culture.

With Dr. Louise Macul, centre, founding member, Friends of Sarawak Museum in the BCM bookshop. Photo by author.

Murals in the Sarawak State Museum, commissioned by Tom Harrisson, Curator of the Sarawak Museum (1947 – 1966). Photo by author.

Kenyah painted wood carving by Tusau Padan, in Hotel Telang Usan. Photo by author.

The Kenyah-owned Hotel Telang Usan exhibits paintings by Kenyah artist extraordinaire Tusau Padan (1933–1996). Tusau often said he was doing ‘all that the old people taught me, not to seek fame but to preserve a beautiful tradition’. The paintings here complement the four masterpieces by artists from Long Nawang, East Kalimantan, in the old Sarawak Museum.

The Tun Jugah Foundation, registered in 1985 perpetuates the memory of Tun Datuk Patinggi Tan Sri Temenggong Jugah anak Barieng by collecting, recording and preserving Iban culture, language and oral history. The museum/gallery promotes traditional methods of Iban weaving through a display of costumes and pua kumbu, antique and modern, complete with weaving materials and implements. There is also an exquisite collection of beads, silverware and jewellery.

Janet Rata Noel, Curator, Museum and Gallery, Tun Jugah Foundation, at her loom. The Foundation encourages all its staff to learn the Iban crafts of weaving and beading. The Foundation conducts demonstrations and workshops. Photo by author.

Born in a longhouse in Kapit, Jugah anak Barieng was a Malaysian politician of Iban descent. Even though he had no formal education, he played a fundamental role in the formation of Malaysia in 1963. Tun Jugah is said to be ‘the bridge to Malaysia’ for without his signature (thumbprint!) there would not be any Malaysia. Photo source: Tun Jugah Foundation.

Kuching is also a major food destination. Each ethnic group has its own delicacies with varying preparation methods. Examples of ethnic foods are the Iban tuak (rice wine), Melanau tebaloi (sago palm crackers) and umai (raw fish in lime juice) and Orang Ulu urum girua (pudding).

A bowl of Sarawak laksa. Photo source: Goody Foodies (https://goodyfoodies.blogspot.com/2014/04/recipe-sarawak-laksa.html)

Wild herb: Motherwort. Photo source: Wikipedia.

Some of the notable dishes, such as Sarawak laksa, kolo mee, and ayam pansuh, have made their way into the menus of Kuala Lumpur eateries, their tastes being increasingly appreciated by the palates of west Malaysians. Creeping in are midin (edible fern), gula apong-flavoured desserts, kway chap (broad rice noodles in spiced broth with offal), and salted ikan terubok (a local fish).

Still relatively unknown are ayam kacangma, a chicken dish made with motherwort, its unique bitter taste complemented with tuak and a popular post-natal dish; wild brinjal (terung Dayak/terung assam) soup made with smoked or salted fish with ginger, garlic, onion, and pepper; and de-shelled smoked-dry prawns, chewy and flavourful, in kerabu or salads. Fresh prawns are shelled, then straightened (unlike the ordinary salted, curled up dried prawns) before being laid on mesh trays to be smoked. It’s a laborious process and retails at RM250 a kilo.

Terung Dayak, a native cultivar of wild eggplant. This local eggplant is spherical in shape and comes in yellow to orange hues. It is called terung asam due to its natural tart flavour. Photo source: Borneodictionary.com

Bario rice is a rare grain grown in the Kelabit Highlands, where the soil is fertile and the temperature is cool. It is irrigated by unpolluted water from the mountains and it takes six months for the grain to mature, yielding aromatic, marble-white rice with a sweet taste and slightly sticky texture, richer in minerals than normal rice. Cultivated by hand with no pesticides using traditional farming methods and with only one yield a year, real Bario rice is rare and retails at RM25 a kilo. 

There is a cheaper, lesser-quality grain that goes by the same name, and many Malaysians are not aware of the difference. Genuine Bario Rice has been registered as a product of Geological Indication (GI), the practice of labelling food based on national or place origins to protect it as part of a nation’s heritage. Bario salt from the salt springs is another speciality from the highlands. Food can speak to a people’s taste and regional differences and signal a connection to culture and national pride.

For Asian cooking aficionados, Stutong Community Market is the place to go to source uncommon ingredients for traditional dishes. Available here is a wide variety of the bounty of the South China Sea, as well as a variety of fruits and vegetables cultivated, foraged, or imported. The range of products extends to local grocery items from other parts of Sarawak and ethnic cakes, puddings, and pastries. Cooked food and hawker stalls are conveniently located on the first floor (and you can even have your clothes tailored here!).

Sarawak has developed its own distinctive culture, different to what you would find in peninsula Malaysia. The geographical location of these two capital cities, separated by the South China Sea, has similarities and dis-similarities.  Visit this City of Unity and Gastronomy for a comparative appreciation of Kuala Lumpur and Kuching.

Edited by Dr Louise Macul

Special thanks to:

  • Dr. Louise Macul for taking us on a tour of the Borneo Cultures Museum and unstintingly sharing her knowledge, and articles in dayakdaily.com
  • Edward Mansel who took us on a walking tour on the trail of the White Rajahs. An octogenarian, he has witnessed an exciting part of Sarawak’s        history. The walking tour ended with a driving tour!
  • Janet Rata Noel who took us through the Tun Jugah Foundation galleries.
  • My friend of many years, Melinda Siew, her husband Kenny, mum Margaret and sons Keegan and Kaedan whose hospitality made our visit so comfortable. Margaret drove us to Stutong and all over Kuching south, and to Petra Jaya, from the airport and to the airport, unceasingly pointing out landmarks along the way, along with interesting snippets of people, places and things unique to Sarawak.
  • Fellow Museum Volunteer JMM, Noriko Nishizawa, for her companionship and care throughout the trip.

References

  1. Munan, Heidi (2015) Sarawak Historical Landmarks
  2. Lim, Jerome. (7 July 2012). St. Joseph Cathedral, Kuching. The Long and Winding Road Blog. https://thelongnwindingroad.wordpress.com/
  3. Sarawak witnesses remarkable progress: Poverty rate reduced to 9 pct, major infrastructure projects underway: https://dayakdaily.com/sarawak-witnesses-remarkable-progress-poverty-rate-reduced-to-9-pct-major-infrastructure-projects-underway/
  4. Bario rice – a rare grain: https://www.theborneopost.com/2012/01/29/bario-rice-a-rare-grain/
  5. Kuching division starts Sarawak’s journey of progress: https://themalaysianreserve.com/2021/01/20/kuching-division-starts-sarawaks-journey-of-progress/
  6. “Kuching, Malaysia” in the Britannica: https://www.britannica.com/place/Kuching
  7. Ting, John H.S. (2018). The History of Architecture in Sarawak before Malaysia. Kuching: Pertubuhan Arkitek Malaysia Sarawak Chapter.
  8. Kuching in Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuching

M & M – Meet the Pros and Museum

By Eric Lim

22 July 2023 (Saturday): Before long, I found myself in another M & M session. This time, it involved [M]eeting professional golfers (‘[M]eet the Pros’) and exploring a camera [M]useum – all within a single day, and they are both hobbies that bring me immense enjoyment!

Meet the Pros

I’ve been playing golf for nearly three decades now, and it seems I’m hooked for life. It is always exciting playing in different golf courses and with different people of different skill levels. Every single round of golf is different and we are always looking forward to hitting that one big shot, like what Harvey Penick who was an American professional golfer envisaged ‘your next shot is a new experience. It might be the best shot you ever hit in your life’. So when the opportunity came to ‘Meet the pros’, I had quickly signed up in the hope of getting some valuable tips to improve my golf game and to get closer to that ‘best shot I ever hit in my life’.

Photo source : MST Golf Group Berhad

The event was held at MST Golf Arena, an indoor golf centre located at Gardens Mall, in the heart of Mid Valley City, Kuala Lumpur. Three local professional golfers, namely Ervin Chang from Kajang, Selangor, Paul San from Sarawak and Shahriffuddin Ariffin from Malacca, made their appearance in person. All three of them are currently playing in the Toyota Tour circuit. The tour was founded by the late Tun Ahmad Sarji in 2010 and was known originally as the PGM Tour (Professional Golf of Malaysia Tour). This year with the inclusion of UMW Toyota Motor and MST Golf, together with Professional Golf of Malaysia (PGM), the name changed to Toyota Tour. MST Golf has established its name in the golf retail industry locally as well as in Southeast Asia. With over 30 years of experience, it is now controlling more than 51% of the local golf equipment retail and distribution market in Malaysia. The company was incorporated on 13 November 1989 as Masinthai Marketing Sdn. Bhd. and later changed its name to MST Golf Sdn. Bhd. on 22 April 1992. 20 July 2023 marked a historic milestone for the company as it premiered as a publicly listed company on the Main Market of Bursa Malaysia Securities Berhad. During the swing assessment session, fellow Kajang resident Ervin Chang gave me a valuable tip which I am now following through to achieve better swing consistency. Incidentally, three days after the meet up event, all three participated in the Supra Cup (one of the tournaments in the Toyota Tour programme) that was held at The Mines Resort & Golf Club, Seri Kembangan. Ervin Chang played well and finished tied for first place with Marcus Lim. Unfortunately, Ervin lost the play-off hole to Marcus.

Winners of the Supra Cup that was held at The Mines Resort & Golf Club.
Photo source : Courtesy of Chew Fook Keong

Museum (Camera Museum)

My first job in Kuala Lumpur was with a local company dealing with the supply of photographic, laboratory and film products. The company, located at the corner of the Jalan Tun HS Lee-Jalan Sultan intersection, was the agent for some reputed brand names at that time, namely: Chinon (camera and lenses), Eiki (16mm film projector), Hanimex (camera and slide projector), Popular (flashlight), Polaroid (instant camera system and sunglasses), Mitsubishi (film and photographic printing paper), Sunpak (flashlight), Velbon (camera tripod stand) and Vivitar (zoom lenses). This was where I started my association with photography. After four years, I left and joined a private limited company in the sales and promotion of Pentax 35mm Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera.

Asahi Optical, the founding company of Pentax, introduced its first 35mm SLR in 1952. The model Asahiflex I, subsequently became the first 35mm SLR manufactured in Japan. And since that time on, it went on to win accolades in the global stage with a long list of the world firsts:

• 1954 – Quick return mirror mechanism (Asahiflex II)
• 1960 – Quick return mirror mechanism received 2nd Science & Technology Agency Director’s Award (Pentax is the first in the camera industry to receive this award)
• 1964 – Through-the-lens (TTL) metering system (Asahi Pentax SP)
• 1966 – Camera manufacturer to produce one million SLR
• 1971 – SLR camera with a TTL automatic exposure control (Pentax EX), and Super Multi Coated lenses (Takumar lens series)
• 1976 – Smallest and lightest SLR camera (Pentax MX and ME)
• 1979 – Incorporate the concept of push-button shutter speed control (Pentax ME Super)
• 1981 – Camera manufacturer to reach the production milestone of 10 million SLR cameras
• 1981 – SLR camera featuring TTL Autofocus (Pentax ME-F)

The company continued to win many more awards. On 31 March 2008, Pentax was defunct as it merged into Hoya Corporation and in 2011, Ricoh acquired all shares of Pentax Imaging Corporation from Hoya Corporation. On 1 August 2013, the company name was changed to Ricoh Imaging Company Limited.

Asahiflex II model / Photo source : Wikimedia Commons

When a friend sent an article from a local social news site that read ‘You probably didn’t know but there’s a Camera Museum in Bukit Bintang with free entry!’ I couldn’t resist but to plan a visit.

Nestled in busy Jalan Bukit Bintang, the Camera Museum lies within the Gold3 Boutique Hotel, located at the side of Fahrenheit 88 shopping centre (formerly known as KL Plaza). Once you enter the hotel, it is beyond a shadow of a doubt that you have reached the right place as cameras and accessories are decorated on the wall behind the reception counter. As a courtesy, inform the staff at the counter that you are there to visit the camera museum and you would be directed to take the lift to Level 2.

Cameras and accessories decorated on the wall. Photo source: Eric Lim

The setting of the camera museum is in the form of a retro camera shop-cum-photo studio. And interestingly, setting the scene at the right corner underneath the neon sign are some old props, namely a close-to-extinction payphone, a paint faded letterbox, an old barbershop pole lamp and an old bicycle. The bicycle is no ordinary bicycle, it is an American-made Schwinn Bicycle.

In 1895, Ignaz Schwinn and Adolph Frederick William Arnold, both German American, founded the Arnold, Schwinn & Company in Chicago and started building bicycles.It was during the time when bicycles were the craze in America. The company continued to strive even with the advent of automobiles at the start of the 20th century, survived the Great Depression period, competed with foreign-made bicycles like the English Racers / Roadsters from Great Britain and Germany and lightweight models from Japan and Taiwan. The company went into bankruptcy in 1992, and since then, Schwinn has been a sub-brand of Pacific Bicycle which was later acquired by Dutch conglomerate Pon Holdings.

The old bicycle on display is a Cruiser bicycle. The model was conceived by Frank W. Schwinn, son of Ignaz, after he came back from a field trip to Europe. It was designed to imitate a motorcycle and targeted the youth’s market. It was introduced to the market in 1933 as the Schwinn B-10E Motorbike. The following year, it was given an upgrade and was renamed Schwinn AeroCycle. The added features include balloon tires (2-2.5 inches / 51-64 mm wide, large-volume, low-pressure tire), streamlined fenders, imitation ‘gas tank’, chrome-plated and battery operated headlight and a push button bicycle bell. It became popular throughout the 1930’s to the 1950’s and popular with paperboys and bicycle couriers. It faded into oblivion when the English Racers / Roadsters were introduced to the American public.

Wall-sized display cabinets / Photo source : Eric Lim

The front section of the retro camera shop-cum-photo studio is guarded by wall-sized display cabinets that are filled with black and white photographs of old Kuala Lumpur (front, right) and vintage cameras, photographic accessories, old movie projectors and photographic film rolls (front, left and centre, right). I found several twin-lens reflex cameras on the shelf (Chinese-made Seagull and Yashica), big cameras with lenses mounted on extendable bellows, compact cameras and portable cassette players, radio, black and white portable television set and even an old typewriter. At the centre left section, located behind the cash register, is a showcase that is packed with a line-up of Polaroid vintage instant cameras like the popular SX-70 series (models like SX-70, nonfolding Presto and Pronto / year 1972 to 1978), 80 series (EE44, EE88 / year 1976 to 1977), 600 series (OneStep 600, Quick 610 / year 1983), Pocket camera (I Zone / year 1999) and Studio / Portrait camera (Minipotrait, Studio Express).

Showcase filled with Polaroid vintage instant cameras / Photo source : Eric Lim

The next section is where the memories of special occasions such as anniversaries, graduation, festivities are captured. The photo studio is fully equipped with a studio camera at the centre, lighting at strategic corners, backdrop and props. And the final piece to complete the jigsaw is the darkroom. It is stored with all the necessary chemicals, printing papers, trays, meter, weighing scale, water basin and dim lighting.

Studio and the darkroom / Photo source : Eric Lim

Whether you are a camera enthusiast or not, this camera museum is worth a visit. You are basically walking through the history of photographic cameras and accessories. It brings back sweet memories of the era before the digital age.

‘Life is like a camera, focus on what’s important. Capture the good times. Develop from the negatives. And if things don’t work out, take another shot’. – Zaid K. Abdelnour

References

1. Toyota Golf Tour
https://www.toyota.com.my/toyota-tour/

2. MST Golf Group
https://www.mstgolfgroup.com/

3. About Pentax , chronology
https://web.archive.org/web/20071224170918/http://www.pentax.co.jp/english/company/company/history.html

4. Schwinn Bicycle Company – Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schwinn_Bicycle_Company

5. Cruiser bicycle – Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cruiser_bicycle

6. List of Polaroid instant cameras – Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Polaroid_instant_cameras